Makeup Tips and Tidbits
Whatever your best facial feature is-lips, cheeks or eyes-play up that feature and downplay the others. Never use heavy makeup on more than one feature at a time or they will fight and look clownish. Another advantage of playing up one feature is you can draw attention away from a feature you don’t like such a less than perfect nose by playing up eyes or lips and use little to no blush which would bring attention to the nose. If you have nice full lips but small eyes, use a rich color on lips and go light on eye makeup to keep from making small eyes look even smaller and bring all the attention to your nice lips. If you have great eyes but lips are less than perfect, use a neutral shade on lips and maximize your eyes for attention. If your cheeks are shaped perfectly, you can make them rosy and highlighted with a shimmer, downplaying eyes and lips for a natural, healthy look.
The average time it should take to apply makeup should be 7 minutes or less. If you take more time than that, you’re probably overdoing it for everyday wear. If you apply your foundation right and get a radiant finish, essentially you can just add mascara and lipstick or gloss and look fabulous. If you apply a light layer of foundation to your eyelids to conceal any redness or discoloration, you often can go without any eye shadow at all. This is a great look for those who are very fair or have very small eyes and don’t look good with lots of eye makeup on. Just apply foundation and a couple good coats of mascara to brighten and define eyes.
Showing posts with label Makeup Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Makeup Tips. Show all posts
All About Foundation
Choosing a Foundation
Foundation should always match your skin tone exactly. Yellow-based foundations work best on most skin types, because they neutralize any pink or red undertones and blotchiness from acne, and result in a clearer complexion. Avoid pink-based foundations, which often end up looking too pink or ruddy on the skin and make acne redness look worse. Most often, foundation with yellow undertones works best for most skins unless you already have a lot of yellow in your skin. In that case, you would look for a shade with no yellow but a more taupe/beige neutral shade to tone down the yellow in your skin so you won’t look sickly.
When choosing a new foundation or other makeup, take a picture of yourself in it to see if it matches your skin tone, hair and eyes-you’ll be able to tell better in a photo. It may be difficult to choose a base color with products that are sold over the counter at your local drug store. Ask the clerk if you can try it and step outside in day light with a mirror to check the color for correctness since fluorescent lights can drastically change the way it matches. Always test on your jaw line and allow foundation to dry. If you see a spot or the color, it's not right, it should be invisible. Why wear something you can't see? It’s meant to even out skin tone, remove blotchiness and create a fresh, healthy looking complexion (not a mask). Then, you factor in contouring, blush, concealer and powder. All these steps cover what you want to cover. Foundation is like priming a canvas. Don't try to darken your skin with the foundation step. That is where contouring and bronzers come in (for contour information, see “Professional Photography Makeup Contouring” under “Model Tips” category). For women with darker complexions who want to avoid ashiness, this occurs when the color is too pink or blue based, or if the foundation is too light.
Types of Foundation
Liquid:
Offers light to medium coverage. Available in moisturizing formulas with a satin finish for dry skin or oil-free versions with a matte finish for oily skin.
Cream:
Offers light to medium coverage, slightly heavier than a liquid and great for dry skin. Avoid creams if you have oily or combination skin.
Stick:
Foundation sticks can also double as concealers. The new gel or powder finish formulas are not as heavy or greasy as the older "pancake" type formulas.
Dual-finish compact formulas (liquid to powder or cream to powder):
Light coverage which is great for combination skin, but should be avoided by those with excessively dry skin since it can be drying, or those who need heavier coverage.
Tinted moisturizer:
Can be used under foundation or alone for minimal to no coverage. Almost like a liquid bronzer.
Mineral Makeup Powder:
These are powders that go on smooth and can be layered for more coverage. They are good for all skin types and problem skin as well.
Foundation Application
Applying foundation makeup can be done in many different ways. It all depends on what you’re comfortable with and what kind of coverage you want. You can use your pointer finger and tap a tiny amount on problem areas, blemishes, redness, discolorations and under eyes until it fades into skin for a natural look, covering just the areas needed without using too much. You can use a soft brush and swirl it on for a polished look. I personally teach girls to apply it with a synthetic makeup sponge and stipple like you’re stipple painting a wall, applying in the center of the face where most of the discoloration is and sweeping the remainder on the sponge outward toward hairline and under jaw line. Using a clean sponge each time will help prevent bacteria from contaminating your foundation which is important for those prone to breakouts. Your fingers also have oil in them and that will spread to your foundation if using your fingers and if you’re using oil free product you don’t want to introduce any oil to it. However you decide to apply it, never swipe or wipe it across your skin since that will just remove it and you’ll end up using more product. Tapping, stippling, blotting or swirling applications work best where you just spread the product around to even it out.
To help makeup last longer, use foundation sparingly and don’t use your fingers to apply since the oil on them makes product fade faster. Always use loose powder to set foundation. Never use pressed powder in a compact to set your makeup. The reason pressed powder stays solid in the compact is because they add oil to it so it sticks together and you can’t set makeup with oily powder. Save the compact to keep in your purse for touching up shine on your nose or dust a blemish during the day. If you find a foundation that matches your skin perfectly, use a true translucent powder that will not add any color, which would change your foundation color and give heavier coverage.
Makeup primers are used like lotions and applied over your moisturizer in a thin film but under your foundation. It helps your makeup last for hours and evens out bumps creating a smoother finish to skin. Makeup will go on easier and blend better if you use a primer underneath. Be sure to use an oil free moisturizer under primers since they don’t stick to oily surfaces and let moisturizer soak in about 10 minutes before applying primer. Foundation is the first step to beautiful make-up application. Spend a few extra dollars for a foundation that you can try on at the beauty counter at a good department or makeup store
Foundation should always match your skin tone exactly. Yellow-based foundations work best on most skin types, because they neutralize any pink or red undertones and blotchiness from acne, and result in a clearer complexion. Avoid pink-based foundations, which often end up looking too pink or ruddy on the skin and make acne redness look worse. Most often, foundation with yellow undertones works best for most skins unless you already have a lot of yellow in your skin. In that case, you would look for a shade with no yellow but a more taupe/beige neutral shade to tone down the yellow in your skin so you won’t look sickly.
When choosing a new foundation or other makeup, take a picture of yourself in it to see if it matches your skin tone, hair and eyes-you’ll be able to tell better in a photo. It may be difficult to choose a base color with products that are sold over the counter at your local drug store. Ask the clerk if you can try it and step outside in day light with a mirror to check the color for correctness since fluorescent lights can drastically change the way it matches. Always test on your jaw line and allow foundation to dry. If you see a spot or the color, it's not right, it should be invisible. Why wear something you can't see? It’s meant to even out skin tone, remove blotchiness and create a fresh, healthy looking complexion (not a mask). Then, you factor in contouring, blush, concealer and powder. All these steps cover what you want to cover. Foundation is like priming a canvas. Don't try to darken your skin with the foundation step. That is where contouring and bronzers come in (for contour information, see “Professional Photography Makeup Contouring” under “Model Tips” category). For women with darker complexions who want to avoid ashiness, this occurs when the color is too pink or blue based, or if the foundation is too light.
Types of Foundation
Liquid:
Offers light to medium coverage. Available in moisturizing formulas with a satin finish for dry skin or oil-free versions with a matte finish for oily skin.
Cream:
Offers light to medium coverage, slightly heavier than a liquid and great for dry skin. Avoid creams if you have oily or combination skin.
Stick:
Foundation sticks can also double as concealers. The new gel or powder finish formulas are not as heavy or greasy as the older "pancake" type formulas.
Dual-finish compact formulas (liquid to powder or cream to powder):
Light coverage which is great for combination skin, but should be avoided by those with excessively dry skin since it can be drying, or those who need heavier coverage.
Tinted moisturizer:
Can be used under foundation or alone for minimal to no coverage. Almost like a liquid bronzer.
Mineral Makeup Powder:
These are powders that go on smooth and can be layered for more coverage. They are good for all skin types and problem skin as well.
Foundation Application
Applying foundation makeup can be done in many different ways. It all depends on what you’re comfortable with and what kind of coverage you want. You can use your pointer finger and tap a tiny amount on problem areas, blemishes, redness, discolorations and under eyes until it fades into skin for a natural look, covering just the areas needed without using too much. You can use a soft brush and swirl it on for a polished look. I personally teach girls to apply it with a synthetic makeup sponge and stipple like you’re stipple painting a wall, applying in the center of the face where most of the discoloration is and sweeping the remainder on the sponge outward toward hairline and under jaw line. Using a clean sponge each time will help prevent bacteria from contaminating your foundation which is important for those prone to breakouts. Your fingers also have oil in them and that will spread to your foundation if using your fingers and if you’re using oil free product you don’t want to introduce any oil to it. However you decide to apply it, never swipe or wipe it across your skin since that will just remove it and you’ll end up using more product. Tapping, stippling, blotting or swirling applications work best where you just spread the product around to even it out.
To help makeup last longer, use foundation sparingly and don’t use your fingers to apply since the oil on them makes product fade faster. Always use loose powder to set foundation. Never use pressed powder in a compact to set your makeup. The reason pressed powder stays solid in the compact is because they add oil to it so it sticks together and you can’t set makeup with oily powder. Save the compact to keep in your purse for touching up shine on your nose or dust a blemish during the day. If you find a foundation that matches your skin perfectly, use a true translucent powder that will not add any color, which would change your foundation color and give heavier coverage.
Makeup primers are used like lotions and applied over your moisturizer in a thin film but under your foundation. It helps your makeup last for hours and evens out bumps creating a smoother finish to skin. Makeup will go on easier and blend better if you use a primer underneath. Be sure to use an oil free moisturizer under primers since they don’t stick to oily surfaces and let moisturizer soak in about 10 minutes before applying primer. Foundation is the first step to beautiful make-up application. Spend a few extra dollars for a foundation that you can try on at the beauty counter at a good department or makeup store
All About Lip Color
Lipstick Application Basics
1. Apply a light coating of foundation or primer to smooth and soften lips. This step helps to fill in the lines and smoothes the surface of lips. Also helps lipstick to last longer. Dust with loose powder.
2. Use a lip liner that matches or is slightly darker than your lip shade (if you want to make lips appear to be larger.). Line lips starting at one corner of your upper lip tracing around your lip line to the other corner. Repeat for bottom lip. Do not go right to the corners. The top and bottom liners should not meet or you may get the "circle' look. It helps to form a half smile so lips are taut making it easier to line. Fill in lips using your lip liner to prevent a ring being left behind when your lipstick wears off. This step will also help lipstick stay longer. Smudge liner slightly or blot with a tissue.
3. Apply lip color with a lip brush to avoid smearing liner. Swipe the brush over the lipstick a few times. Starting at the center of lips, work the color outwards. Be sure to line color where lip liner ends at the corners of your mouth. Brush lips one more time with another coat of lip color. Repeat a third time if a more intense pout is what you desire. Blot excess off.
4. Optional, applying a lip gloss to give a nice shine to lips.
Lipstick Types
Matte Lipsticks:
Some are also categorized as “Long-Wearing”, which usually contains kaolin as the primary ingredient for staying power and give lipsticks a non shiny/greasy texture. They tend to be drying, but if you're looking for staying power, matte is a good option unless you are over 50 years old-a bad choice since they show lip lines and emphasize a crepey surface-go with a creamier based formula if you are older or have dry, flaky or wrinkled lips. Many Long-Wearing lipsticks claim to ‘last all day even through kissing’-these claims are a bit exaggerated…
Sheer Lipsticks:
The pigmentation of sheers is not very high and tend to be transparent. They can be more moisturizing then other types of lipsticks and wear off easy but leave a nice hint of color.
Cream or Moisturizing Lipsticks:
These contain conditioning ingredients such as shea butter. They tend to wear off easily due to moisturizing ingredients in them but if you have dry lips or aging lips, these are best.
Staining Lip Colors:
These often have dual uses for both lips and cheeks for staining. Some have good staying power depending on how much they stain. Apply lip gloss over stains for moister looking lips. Stains will give uneven color if applied to dry, peeling lips since the dead skin stains darker so be sure to exfoliate lips first before applying.
Gloss and High Gloss:
These will make your lips look fuller since they reflect a lot of light. They can be worn alone or over another lipstick.
Lipstick Color Choices
When choosing the correct shade of lipstick, look at your complexion. See my tips further down under the “Makeup Tips” category: ‘How to Choose Makeup Colors for Your Season’ a guide to colors to choose for your skin and hair color. The deeper your skin color, the richer and deeper you can go with lip color. Fair skin tones should stick with lighter, softer colors or a sheer lipstick. Avoid orange undertones in lipsticks unless you are sure you have a warm “season” complexion, either spring or autumn. Your lipstick color should be in the same color family as your blush-if your blush is rose, choose a rose or pink shade lipstick. If your blush is peach, choose a peachy or coral lipstick. Anyone can wear red but be sure to choose the right red for your complexion. If you have cool color skin tone, choose red with more blue undertones to it, for warm skin tone, choose red with orange undertones. To wear red with fair complexions, use a sheer red lipstick so it doesn’t overpower your skin tone by being too intense. Keep in mind that darker shades will make your lips appear smaller and lighter shades will make your lips appear fuller.
Lipstick Tips
-For a very long lasting stain use Jell-O or Kool-Aid powder. It stains lips and doesn’t wear off. Dip a brush into the powder (cherry or strawberry flavored) and apply to bare moistened lips. Apply red liner and fill in with transparent red gloss for lots of depth.
-If you wear braces keep your lips well moisturized, avoid drying matte lipsticks and wear neutral shades to avoid bringing attention to your braces. Play up your eye makeup so attention is diverted there instead of at your braces.
-Over the age of 50, you should not pick a really dark shade lipstick since it’s very harsh, aging and makes your lips look smaller. Since lips tend to get thinner with age, you definitely don’t want to apply a lipstick that makes them look thinner.
-Tone down a lipstick that’s too bright by putting some lipstick on the top of your hand, blend a little foundation into it and paint on lips with a lip brush.
-Lipstick will last much longer if you line lips thinly and fill in, blot with tissue, then line and fill in again using a thin coat. Top with a lip sealant clear film and apply a little gloss.
For the “Nude Lip” Look
The nude lip look is perfect for either a no makeup, natural look or playing down your lips when you have strong makeup on your eyes. Choose a beige that’s one to two shades darker than your skin tone and lean toward a little more color if desired-like your own lip color only a bit brighter-a hint of rose for cool or peach for warm color skin, pinky browns look good on fair, cool color skin and browns or golds for darker skin tones. Be sure to line lips for dimension and shape, then rub a bit of gloss on top-even a sheer colored gloss will look nice and give depth. To find a shade similar to your own lip color, make sure you have no makeup on since the color should look great without makeup. Choose a few lipsticks that seem to match your lips then brush a bit of the color from each in the middle of your bottom lip. It should not look milky, ashy, orangey or reddish. If you look tired, it’s probably too light, so go a shade or two darker. It should compliment your features regardless of what other makeup you apply without being overwhelming. It’s best to check the colors in sunlight and not fluorescent lighting which can change color quite a bit.
1. Apply a light coating of foundation or primer to smooth and soften lips. This step helps to fill in the lines and smoothes the surface of lips. Also helps lipstick to last longer. Dust with loose powder.
2. Use a lip liner that matches or is slightly darker than your lip shade (if you want to make lips appear to be larger.). Line lips starting at one corner of your upper lip tracing around your lip line to the other corner. Repeat for bottom lip. Do not go right to the corners. The top and bottom liners should not meet or you may get the "circle' look. It helps to form a half smile so lips are taut making it easier to line. Fill in lips using your lip liner to prevent a ring being left behind when your lipstick wears off. This step will also help lipstick stay longer. Smudge liner slightly or blot with a tissue.
3. Apply lip color with a lip brush to avoid smearing liner. Swipe the brush over the lipstick a few times. Starting at the center of lips, work the color outwards. Be sure to line color where lip liner ends at the corners of your mouth. Brush lips one more time with another coat of lip color. Repeat a third time if a more intense pout is what you desire. Blot excess off.
4. Optional, applying a lip gloss to give a nice shine to lips.
Lipstick Types
Matte Lipsticks:
Some are also categorized as “Long-Wearing”, which usually contains kaolin as the primary ingredient for staying power and give lipsticks a non shiny/greasy texture. They tend to be drying, but if you're looking for staying power, matte is a good option unless you are over 50 years old-a bad choice since they show lip lines and emphasize a crepey surface-go with a creamier based formula if you are older or have dry, flaky or wrinkled lips. Many Long-Wearing lipsticks claim to ‘last all day even through kissing’-these claims are a bit exaggerated…
Sheer Lipsticks:
The pigmentation of sheers is not very high and tend to be transparent. They can be more moisturizing then other types of lipsticks and wear off easy but leave a nice hint of color.
Cream or Moisturizing Lipsticks:
These contain conditioning ingredients such as shea butter. They tend to wear off easily due to moisturizing ingredients in them but if you have dry lips or aging lips, these are best.
Staining Lip Colors:
These often have dual uses for both lips and cheeks for staining. Some have good staying power depending on how much they stain. Apply lip gloss over stains for moister looking lips. Stains will give uneven color if applied to dry, peeling lips since the dead skin stains darker so be sure to exfoliate lips first before applying.
Gloss and High Gloss:
These will make your lips look fuller since they reflect a lot of light. They can be worn alone or over another lipstick.
Lipstick Color Choices
When choosing the correct shade of lipstick, look at your complexion. See my tips further down under the “Makeup Tips” category: ‘How to Choose Makeup Colors for Your Season’ a guide to colors to choose for your skin and hair color. The deeper your skin color, the richer and deeper you can go with lip color. Fair skin tones should stick with lighter, softer colors or a sheer lipstick. Avoid orange undertones in lipsticks unless you are sure you have a warm “season” complexion, either spring or autumn. Your lipstick color should be in the same color family as your blush-if your blush is rose, choose a rose or pink shade lipstick. If your blush is peach, choose a peachy or coral lipstick. Anyone can wear red but be sure to choose the right red for your complexion. If you have cool color skin tone, choose red with more blue undertones to it, for warm skin tone, choose red with orange undertones. To wear red with fair complexions, use a sheer red lipstick so it doesn’t overpower your skin tone by being too intense. Keep in mind that darker shades will make your lips appear smaller and lighter shades will make your lips appear fuller.
Lipstick Tips
-For a very long lasting stain use Jell-O or Kool-Aid powder. It stains lips and doesn’t wear off. Dip a brush into the powder (cherry or strawberry flavored) and apply to bare moistened lips. Apply red liner and fill in with transparent red gloss for lots of depth.
-If you wear braces keep your lips well moisturized, avoid drying matte lipsticks and wear neutral shades to avoid bringing attention to your braces. Play up your eye makeup so attention is diverted there instead of at your braces.
-Over the age of 50, you should not pick a really dark shade lipstick since it’s very harsh, aging and makes your lips look smaller. Since lips tend to get thinner with age, you definitely don’t want to apply a lipstick that makes them look thinner.
-Tone down a lipstick that’s too bright by putting some lipstick on the top of your hand, blend a little foundation into it and paint on lips with a lip brush.
-Lipstick will last much longer if you line lips thinly and fill in, blot with tissue, then line and fill in again using a thin coat. Top with a lip sealant clear film and apply a little gloss.
For the “Nude Lip” Look
The nude lip look is perfect for either a no makeup, natural look or playing down your lips when you have strong makeup on your eyes. Choose a beige that’s one to two shades darker than your skin tone and lean toward a little more color if desired-like your own lip color only a bit brighter-a hint of rose for cool or peach for warm color skin, pinky browns look good on fair, cool color skin and browns or golds for darker skin tones. Be sure to line lips for dimension and shape, then rub a bit of gloss on top-even a sheer colored gloss will look nice and give depth. To find a shade similar to your own lip color, make sure you have no makeup on since the color should look great without makeup. Choose a few lipsticks that seem to match your lips then brush a bit of the color from each in the middle of your bottom lip. It should not look milky, ashy, orangey or reddish. If you look tired, it’s probably too light, so go a shade or two darker. It should compliment your features regardless of what other makeup you apply without being overwhelming. It’s best to check the colors in sunlight and not fluorescent lighting which can change color quite a bit.
All About Blush
Blushers
For cheek color, blusher is placed directly on the cheeks starting at the center or fattest part of the ‘apple’, and blended out then up towards the temple area or hair line (smile big to find the fattest part of your ‘apple’). It you have applied cheek contours (or lowlights-see article on “Professional Photography Makeup” in the “Model Tips” category for how-to’s), you want to blend your blush back and up meeting the contours so they blend together. Never apply blush closer to the nose than the outer rim of your iris or below an imaginary line from nostril base to the bottom of your ear, and keep color away from underneath the eye area which could look more like a sunburn or skin irritation than a healthy glow. Since we generally want our cheekbones to look full and defined, avoid getting blush up too high on your cheekbones-you want the cheekbones to be lighter so they appear full. If you apply your blush high on the cheekbones into your temples it looks very unnatural. When foundation is applied, its purpose is to even out skin tone and eliminate any redness in the center of your face so you don’t want to put that redness back in with blush-you only want a little soft color with the correct placement. Using a smaller brush to apply blush will get a better placement of color than if you use a large fluffy brush that deposits color in a large general area. The brush should be larger than the one they give you in the compact, but smaller than your large face powder brush. To get a soft, warm, healthy looking flush to your cheeks, avoid brownish shades and choose colors in your ‘Season’ that match or coordinate with your eye shadow and lip color or that have slight reddish pinky/rose (for cool complexions) or peachy/coral (for warm). Be sure to blend the edges of blush well so there are no hard lines and the effect is a very natural glow.
Types of Blushers
-Powder: the boldest color and good for all skin types except dry skin.
-Cream: is sheerer than powder and good for dry to normal skin.
-Liquid: has a matte finish that stains skin and lasts a long time. Good for all skin types except possibly dry or flaky skin since it can cause blotchy color.
-Gel: is the sheerest color and can be used as lip stain as well but is not the best for dry or flaky skin. Be sure to exfoliate first since it leaves dry flakes darker.
Blusher Tips
-To look more awake on a bad day, try using a blush color a shade brighter than your normal blush or dab on some lipstick in a bright sheer color and blend well.
-Never use dark bronzer or brown shades as your blush if you have fair skin. It will be too dark and too warm appearing unnatural and dirty looking.
-Don’t apply blush too bright or heavy-it will look clownish, and if your eyes or lips are emphasized with dramatic color, go very soft with the blush so they don’t compete.
-For dry skin, cream blushers work best. To apply cream blush, dab a little blush on your pointer and middle fingertips, smile big and starting in the center of the fattest part of the apple, make a big ‘check mark’ on your cheek and blend in.
-When applying gel blush which can dry quickly and streak, get a good finish by dipping fingertip lightly first in moisturizer then a tiny bit of gel blush on top of it, mix them and then blend into cheeks.
-If your face is long, and you want to make your face appear rounder, apply blush straight across the cheekbone. Avoid placing blush high on the cheekbones or on temple.
-If your face is round, and you want it to appear longer and more oval, apply blush diagonally on the cheekbone, angled toward temple.
-Soften and subdue a too bright or heavy application of blusher with loose face powder.
-Heat and oils from your finger will help blend cream, liquid and gel blushes and other makeup (wash hands first).
-Your blush should match and compliment the rest of your make-up but especially your lip color.
-Don’t use sparkly/iridescent blush or bronzer over acne since it will highlight zits. It’s best to just forgo blush and contours all together when you have acne so you don’t call attention to the bumpiness. Play up eyes or lips to divert attention away from areas that are broken out.
For cheek color, blusher is placed directly on the cheeks starting at the center or fattest part of the ‘apple’, and blended out then up towards the temple area or hair line (smile big to find the fattest part of your ‘apple’). It you have applied cheek contours (or lowlights-see article on “Professional Photography Makeup” in the “Model Tips” category for how-to’s), you want to blend your blush back and up meeting the contours so they blend together. Never apply blush closer to the nose than the outer rim of your iris or below an imaginary line from nostril base to the bottom of your ear, and keep color away from underneath the eye area which could look more like a sunburn or skin irritation than a healthy glow. Since we generally want our cheekbones to look full and defined, avoid getting blush up too high on your cheekbones-you want the cheekbones to be lighter so they appear full. If you apply your blush high on the cheekbones into your temples it looks very unnatural. When foundation is applied, its purpose is to even out skin tone and eliminate any redness in the center of your face so you don’t want to put that redness back in with blush-you only want a little soft color with the correct placement. Using a smaller brush to apply blush will get a better placement of color than if you use a large fluffy brush that deposits color in a large general area. The brush should be larger than the one they give you in the compact, but smaller than your large face powder brush. To get a soft, warm, healthy looking flush to your cheeks, avoid brownish shades and choose colors in your ‘Season’ that match or coordinate with your eye shadow and lip color or that have slight reddish pinky/rose (for cool complexions) or peachy/coral (for warm). Be sure to blend the edges of blush well so there are no hard lines and the effect is a very natural glow.
Types of Blushers
-Powder: the boldest color and good for all skin types except dry skin.
-Cream: is sheerer than powder and good for dry to normal skin.
-Liquid: has a matte finish that stains skin and lasts a long time. Good for all skin types except possibly dry or flaky skin since it can cause blotchy color.
-Gel: is the sheerest color and can be used as lip stain as well but is not the best for dry or flaky skin. Be sure to exfoliate first since it leaves dry flakes darker.
Blusher Tips
-To look more awake on a bad day, try using a blush color a shade brighter than your normal blush or dab on some lipstick in a bright sheer color and blend well.
-Never use dark bronzer or brown shades as your blush if you have fair skin. It will be too dark and too warm appearing unnatural and dirty looking.
-Don’t apply blush too bright or heavy-it will look clownish, and if your eyes or lips are emphasized with dramatic color, go very soft with the blush so they don’t compete.
-For dry skin, cream blushers work best. To apply cream blush, dab a little blush on your pointer and middle fingertips, smile big and starting in the center of the fattest part of the apple, make a big ‘check mark’ on your cheek and blend in.
-When applying gel blush which can dry quickly and streak, get a good finish by dipping fingertip lightly first in moisturizer then a tiny bit of gel blush on top of it, mix them and then blend into cheeks.
-If your face is long, and you want to make your face appear rounder, apply blush straight across the cheekbone. Avoid placing blush high on the cheekbones or on temple.
-If your face is round, and you want it to appear longer and more oval, apply blush diagonally on the cheekbone, angled toward temple.
-Soften and subdue a too bright or heavy application of blusher with loose face powder.
-Heat and oils from your finger will help blend cream, liquid and gel blushes and other makeup (wash hands first).
-Your blush should match and compliment the rest of your make-up but especially your lip color.
-Don’t use sparkly/iridescent blush or bronzer over acne since it will highlight zits. It’s best to just forgo blush and contours all together when you have acne so you don’t call attention to the bumpiness. Play up eyes or lips to divert attention away from areas that are broken out.
How to Choose Makeup Colors for Your Season
Matching up Your Complexion and Hair Color to Makeup
Be sure to match colors to your ‘Season’ (another topic on that to come under ‘Fashion” category). A majority of people are a cool tone, either summer or winter. For cool toned skin: choose cool colors such as pink, rose, burgundy, wine, plum, taupe, silver, gray, charcoal, blue and cool greens, and reds with a blue undertone. Few people are the warm tones of spring or autumn. Natural redheads are generally autumn. For warm tones: choose terra cotta, brick, peach, coral, orange, bronze, gold, caramel, chocolate brown and warm greens and reds. Warm reds have more orange tints in them while cool reds have more violet or blue. Warm greens have more yellow while cool greens have more blue. Violet eye makeup in smokey shades will look good almost universally on all skin tones. Bright, intense blues never look good on anyone so don't even buy it.
Fair Skin & Light Hair
Choose a pale blush, softer eyeshadow and liner colors since too much color will over power your fair coloring. Liner should be soft brown or charcoal, avoid really dark liner. Lips can go lighter or bold depending on whether you are more dressed down or up but for bold colors, choose more of a sheer lipstick or a gloss. Most everyone with very fair skin and hair are cool tone ‘Summer Season’ so you will probably look best in the cool colors.
Fair Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Medium shade blush with medium shades on eyes and lips as well. You want to be somewhere in the middle so you don’t over power the light or the dark. Liner should be medium brown or charcoal. Most dark haired girls with fair skin are ‘Winter Season’ and you’ll probably look best in cool colors. If your eyes are dark, you can get away with some darker shades around your eyes.
Olive Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Brighter blushes or a bronzer and eyes in darker browns or golds. You can also use bright colors and dark liner. Lips can be brick, wine, soft caramel or chocolate brown. Your coloring can handle rich tones. Stay away from bright orangy and pinky shades which will bring out too much yellow in your skin. Eyeliner should be dark brown or black.
Medium Skin & Dark-Medium Hair
Blush in pink, wine or plum with eyes in a pale shade of gray, blue, purple or pink. Use black or gray eye liner and lips in pink, plum, reds or mauves. If skin has a golden cast to it, you may look better in the warm colors in medium to rich tones. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Light Brown Skin & Dark to Medium-Light Hair
Blush in rose, orangey peach or gold bronzes with eyes in brown shimmer or greens, blues or purple. Lips can be earth tones with gold specks, light brown, caramel, brick red or coral. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Dark Skin & Dark Hair
Blush in bright or deep reddish shades like rose, brick red, rust, watermelon, burgundy or mauves. Eyes should be one shade lighter than your skin tone with gold or silver specs depending on if you are a warm or cool tone. Brow bones should have an even lighter highlight, and use dark eye liner. Eyeliner should be black. Lips can be deep plum, red, wine or berry, or bright red, orange or fuchsia for evening. Darker skin with paler brown makeup colors will look ashy and washed out.
Be sure to match colors to your ‘Season’ (another topic on that to come under ‘Fashion” category). A majority of people are a cool tone, either summer or winter. For cool toned skin: choose cool colors such as pink, rose, burgundy, wine, plum, taupe, silver, gray, charcoal, blue and cool greens, and reds with a blue undertone. Few people are the warm tones of spring or autumn. Natural redheads are generally autumn. For warm tones: choose terra cotta, brick, peach, coral, orange, bronze, gold, caramel, chocolate brown and warm greens and reds. Warm reds have more orange tints in them while cool reds have more violet or blue. Warm greens have more yellow while cool greens have more blue. Violet eye makeup in smokey shades will look good almost universally on all skin tones. Bright, intense blues never look good on anyone so don't even buy it.
Fair Skin & Light Hair
Choose a pale blush, softer eyeshadow and liner colors since too much color will over power your fair coloring. Liner should be soft brown or charcoal, avoid really dark liner. Lips can go lighter or bold depending on whether you are more dressed down or up but for bold colors, choose more of a sheer lipstick or a gloss. Most everyone with very fair skin and hair are cool tone ‘Summer Season’ so you will probably look best in the cool colors.
Fair Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Medium shade blush with medium shades on eyes and lips as well. You want to be somewhere in the middle so you don’t over power the light or the dark. Liner should be medium brown or charcoal. Most dark haired girls with fair skin are ‘Winter Season’ and you’ll probably look best in cool colors. If your eyes are dark, you can get away with some darker shades around your eyes.
Olive Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Brighter blushes or a bronzer and eyes in darker browns or golds. You can also use bright colors and dark liner. Lips can be brick, wine, soft caramel or chocolate brown. Your coloring can handle rich tones. Stay away from bright orangy and pinky shades which will bring out too much yellow in your skin. Eyeliner should be dark brown or black.
Medium Skin & Dark-Medium Hair
Blush in pink, wine or plum with eyes in a pale shade of gray, blue, purple or pink. Use black or gray eye liner and lips in pink, plum, reds or mauves. If skin has a golden cast to it, you may look better in the warm colors in medium to rich tones. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Light Brown Skin & Dark to Medium-Light Hair
Blush in rose, orangey peach or gold bronzes with eyes in brown shimmer or greens, blues or purple. Lips can be earth tones with gold specks, light brown, caramel, brick red or coral. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Dark Skin & Dark Hair
Blush in bright or deep reddish shades like rose, brick red, rust, watermelon, burgundy or mauves. Eyes should be one shade lighter than your skin tone with gold or silver specs depending on if you are a warm or cool tone. Brow bones should have an even lighter highlight, and use dark eye liner. Eyeliner should be black. Lips can be deep plum, red, wine or berry, or bright red, orange or fuchsia for evening. Darker skin with paler brown makeup colors will look ashy and washed out.
All About Eye Liners and Tips
Eyeliner Types
Eye liners come in pencil, liquid or powder. Pencils liners can be found in an assortment of sizes and colors. The fatter the pencil, the more smudged look you'll get, the smaller and harder the pencil, the more precise a line you’ll get. Pencils are versatile since you can use them for sharper, defined lines or create a smudged, smoky look and any combination in between. Liquid liners are a bit tricky to apply, but once you master a perfect line, you will probably love the look. Liquid liners will give a more dramatic, defined look. Powders go on softer but when mixed with a liquid, can go on darker. They must be used with a good pointed brush to apply a thin line.
Liner Application
Top Lids
Apply liner as close to lashes as possible-you don’t want to see any skin color between your lashes and liner. For pencils and powders you can scrub the color right into your lashes so you don’t see the skin tone-particularly useful for very fair complexions with sparse lashes. Smudging pencil liner will help avoid a harsh look. To make eyes look longer or wide-set, start mid-lid and extend liner just past the end of eye, tapering upward.
Bottom Lids
Apply pencil or powder liner sparingly as close to lashes as possible then smudge to avoid a harsh look and help balance the eye shape. To make eyes look longer or wide-set, start mid-lid and extend liner just past the end of eye, blending upward, or just add a small smudge under eyes at the outer corner and smudge upward. For most people, lining the entire bottom lid looks very unnatural, heavy, throws the shape of eyes off balance and makes eyes look smaller so stick with lining no more than half way in on the bottom. Liquid liner doesn’t usually look good on bottom lids since it can look too harsh and can be difficult to apply, but if you do want to try it, hold outer corner of lid taut and apply using quick short strokes if you have trouble making an even line in one thin stroke because of lashes in the way.
Eye Lining Tips
-The thicker the brush for liquid eyeliner, the thicker the line will be and the harder it is to manage a perfect line. Wipe excess liquid liner off on the rim of the tube when you pull the brush out. If the skin on your lid tends to crinkle, the line will not turn out straight.
-To help you get a fine straight line, hold eye lid taut at the outer corner of eye and apply in one long, smooth stroke starting at the inner corner. Always apply liquid liner after shadow application and allow to dry before applying mascara.
-Using oily or slick pencils to line the lower lashes will smear and smudge. Most pencil liners wear off easier, so set it to last longer and prevent smudging by softly brushing some powder shadow over it in black, brown or charcoal.
-Don’t use eyeshadow as eyeliner unless you use a brush with a small, precise, fine-tipped point. And mixing the shadow with water or Visine before applying will give you a better line and a good substitute if you don’t have any liner.
-Don’t use really bright colored pencils or eyeshadows to line the eye. It’s distracting and automatically looks like too much makeup. All you see is the makeup and not your eyes. Also don’t make liner the most obvious part of your overall makeup.
-Never circle the eye with dark or bright color. Both are too obvious and create an eyeglass-style circle around the eye.
-Don’t line the inside rim of the lids, between the lash and the eye itself unless you have really large eyes. It makes eyes look smaller, it’s messy and can be unhealthy for the cornea.
-Over-blending and spilling your eyeliner onto the skin under the lower lashes will make dark under eye circles look worse. Go easy with liner on top lids as well since it will bring attention the dark circles.-Never apply thick or heavy eyeliner to small or close-set eyes or eyes with small eyelids.
-To help correct droopy eyes (your eye shape droops downward at the outer corners), line upper lids starting at the middle of the lid in a very thin line and getting thicker at the outer corners and wing it upward and outward to visually lift eyes and don’t line bottom lids.
-Extend liner past the outer corner of the eyes and upward for a cat eye look, but be careful not to extend too far or you may look like an Egyptian Pharaoh.
-Soften the tip of a freshly sharpened pencil by gently rolling it across the back of your hand or between your fingers. You can also bring a dull, flattened pencil to more of a point without sharpening it by gently pinching and rolling the tip between your thumb and forefinger. You can also salvage a tip broken off a pencil by placing it back onto the pencil, gently pinch, push back toward pencil and roll between fingers to meld them together.
See other categories for “Makeup Tips” and “Eyes” for more ideas and for thousands more tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
Eye liners come in pencil, liquid or powder. Pencils liners can be found in an assortment of sizes and colors. The fatter the pencil, the more smudged look you'll get, the smaller and harder the pencil, the more precise a line you’ll get. Pencils are versatile since you can use them for sharper, defined lines or create a smudged, smoky look and any combination in between. Liquid liners are a bit tricky to apply, but once you master a perfect line, you will probably love the look. Liquid liners will give a more dramatic, defined look. Powders go on softer but when mixed with a liquid, can go on darker. They must be used with a good pointed brush to apply a thin line.
Liner Application
Top Lids
Apply liner as close to lashes as possible-you don’t want to see any skin color between your lashes and liner. For pencils and powders you can scrub the color right into your lashes so you don’t see the skin tone-particularly useful for very fair complexions with sparse lashes. Smudging pencil liner will help avoid a harsh look. To make eyes look longer or wide-set, start mid-lid and extend liner just past the end of eye, tapering upward.
Bottom Lids
Apply pencil or powder liner sparingly as close to lashes as possible then smudge to avoid a harsh look and help balance the eye shape. To make eyes look longer or wide-set, start mid-lid and extend liner just past the end of eye, blending upward, or just add a small smudge under eyes at the outer corner and smudge upward. For most people, lining the entire bottom lid looks very unnatural, heavy, throws the shape of eyes off balance and makes eyes look smaller so stick with lining no more than half way in on the bottom. Liquid liner doesn’t usually look good on bottom lids since it can look too harsh and can be difficult to apply, but if you do want to try it, hold outer corner of lid taut and apply using quick short strokes if you have trouble making an even line in one thin stroke because of lashes in the way.
Eye Lining Tips
-The thicker the brush for liquid eyeliner, the thicker the line will be and the harder it is to manage a perfect line. Wipe excess liquid liner off on the rim of the tube when you pull the brush out. If the skin on your lid tends to crinkle, the line will not turn out straight.
-To help you get a fine straight line, hold eye lid taut at the outer corner of eye and apply in one long, smooth stroke starting at the inner corner. Always apply liquid liner after shadow application and allow to dry before applying mascara.
-Using oily or slick pencils to line the lower lashes will smear and smudge. Most pencil liners wear off easier, so set it to last longer and prevent smudging by softly brushing some powder shadow over it in black, brown or charcoal.
-Don’t use eyeshadow as eyeliner unless you use a brush with a small, precise, fine-tipped point. And mixing the shadow with water or Visine before applying will give you a better line and a good substitute if you don’t have any liner.
-Don’t use really bright colored pencils or eyeshadows to line the eye. It’s distracting and automatically looks like too much makeup. All you see is the makeup and not your eyes. Also don’t make liner the most obvious part of your overall makeup.
-Never circle the eye with dark or bright color. Both are too obvious and create an eyeglass-style circle around the eye.
-Don’t line the inside rim of the lids, between the lash and the eye itself unless you have really large eyes. It makes eyes look smaller, it’s messy and can be unhealthy for the cornea.
-Over-blending and spilling your eyeliner onto the skin under the lower lashes will make dark under eye circles look worse. Go easy with liner on top lids as well since it will bring attention the dark circles.-Never apply thick or heavy eyeliner to small or close-set eyes or eyes with small eyelids.
-To help correct droopy eyes (your eye shape droops downward at the outer corners), line upper lids starting at the middle of the lid in a very thin line and getting thicker at the outer corners and wing it upward and outward to visually lift eyes and don’t line bottom lids.
-Extend liner past the outer corner of the eyes and upward for a cat eye look, but be careful not to extend too far or you may look like an Egyptian Pharaoh.
-Soften the tip of a freshly sharpened pencil by gently rolling it across the back of your hand or between your fingers. You can also bring a dull, flattened pencil to more of a point without sharpening it by gently pinching and rolling the tip between your thumb and forefinger. You can also salvage a tip broken off a pencil by placing it back onto the pencil, gently pinch, push back toward pencil and roll between fingers to meld them together.
See other categories for “Makeup Tips” and “Eyes” for more ideas and for thousands more tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
Eye Shapes, Problems and Makeup Application
Eye Shadow Application and Tips for Eye Shapes and Problems
To prevent eye makeup from coming off, running or smudging by the end of the day: lightly moisturize eye area with an oil free lotion, apply foundation and then loose powder (even if you don’t like wearing foundation it helps to wear it at least on your eyes). It creates a base for the eye makeup to adhere to and makes blending colors easier. You can substitute makeup primer for the foundation which is applied in a light film and also creates smoother skin (be sure your moisturizer is oil free and soaks in about 10 minutes before applying primer since it won’t adhere to oily surfaces). Use powder shadow instead of creams or gels which tend to melt and fade faster. Avoid using your fingers to apply eye makeup because your fingers have oils that can make colors run. Wearing makeup just on tops of eyes will help avoid smudges and dark circles under eyes.
If you wear glasses, make sure eye makeup is well blended and neat because your glasses will magnify mistakes and keep eye liner thinner since the line will appear bolder through your glasses.
For a fast, easy way to add instant glamour to eyes, dab a bit of lip gloss on lid right above top lashes and blend. Bronze shimmer gloss will work for most complexions.
Crepey or Aging Wrinkled Eyelids
Before applying eye makeup, you might want to moisturize the eye area with a gel that helps tighten the skin up and helps prevent smudging that happens with oils or creams. Avoid applying foundation to eyelids which will collect in the creases and accentuate the crepiness, but do press on some face powder to lids before applying color for a smoother look. Instead of foundation, you could use a makeup primer which acts like a foundation in coverage but will smooth out skin when applied in a thin film. Avoid shimmery eye shadows which reflect light and draw attention to lids. If using cream shadows, be sure it’s not too greasy or too dry and choose colors that are soft matte tones in light to medium colors of nude, taupe, brown, soft grey or lavender so as not to draw too much attention. Stay away from very dark liners.
Under Eye Dark Circles
Avoid liner and eye shadow shades with blue or blue undertones or any dark shades anywhere under eyes. You might want to apply makeup only to upper lids so it draws attention away from the circles and is less likely to smudge under eyes and make circles darker. Always clean up any speckles of dark eye shadow that falls under your eyes. Also see other categories for tips on under eye circles such as “Eyes”, “Aging Skin” and “Revive Eyes and Face”.
Make Eye Color Pop
Your eye color will look more intense if you understate your lips and cheeks and play up your eyes with complimentary colors:
Brown eyes-wear green or gold
Blue eyes-wear orange or peach
Green eyes-wear purple or copper
Hazel eyes-wear blue or olive
Eye Shapes and Correct Makeup Application
Almond-shaped Eyes
Almond shapes are usually larger or longer with a bit of an upturn at the outer corners. Avoid too much dark shadow and liner at the same time and only line the outer two thirds of eyes. Apply lighter shade from lash to brow with medium shade on lid. Then place dark shadow on outer third of lid. Applying a dot of shimmery shadow on the outer half of brow bone is also a nice look. Apply generous coats of mascara and comb well to separate.
Close-set Eyes
Close-set eyes are often due to a slender nose and makes your face look smaller, or all your features crowded in the center of your face. To create the illusion of width between eyes, apply color wide apart. Start shadow well away from eye's inner corner blending up and out with the more intense shade at outer limits. Line only the outer half of the eye and then apply light shadow to inner corners. Concentrate mascara on outer lashes as well. Another trick you can use to spread eyes apart is to put a dot of very light eye shadow at the inner corner of eyes next to nose and blend inward toward upper and lower lids. This will work even if you aren’t wearing any other eye shadow colors.
Deep-set or Hooded Eyes
These eyes don’t have a visible crease, such as Asian eyes. Go easy with eye makeup and avoid dark shades on the lids but line upper lash line with a dark shade, with liner on the bottom lids optional and smudge to soften. To make eyes pop, use a light shimmery shadow on brow bones and a slightly darker shadow on lids to just above the crease and apply plenty of mascara. To add a little drama, you can create a bit of an upturn to liner at the outer corners and blend some medium color shadow along eyelids and follow the upturn, blending upward toward brows. Curling lashes also helps eyes pop.
Round Eyes
To make them appear more almond-shaped, use lighter shadow all over top lid, darker in entire crease. Line top and bottom lid, extend liner out and up at end. Mascara for top lashes only, with more on outer half.
Wide-set Eyes
Apply a light to medium shade from lash to brow. Place darker shadow shade near eye's inner corners, blending across lid and feathering out lightly towards temples. Focus liner and mascara on inner corners to help pull the look of eyes together.
Small Eyes
Make eyes look larger and add sparkle by using a light colored shimmery pencil or shadow (for very fair skin use white and for dark skin use gold, others can use shimmery pink or silver for cool complexions and shimmery gold or yellow for warm complexions). Apply it in a small ‘V’ at inner corner of eyes with one side of the V going along top eyelid and other side of V along the bottom lid. Small eyes typically have little or no lids showing so avoid dark colors that make eyes look smaller and lids disappear. Never line all the way around small eyes and keep lines thinner, lining just the outer third of eyes, top and bottom, then soften the line with a sponge or cotton swab. Use lighter shades in both liner and shadow such as pale gray, soft brown, taupe, smokey lavender or other subtle color. Lining the lower inner lid area with light taupe or bluish white pencil will make eyes look bigger. Pale shimmery shadows will look good on lids up to the crease and a little added at the inner corners of eyes and a little on the bottom lid which will make eyes stand out. Use an eyelash curler to help open up eyes and make them appear larger as well.
Eyes with little or no lids showing
Apply a silvery green, violet or blue shadow beginning near lashes and fading up to the crease to brighten eyes and add pizzazz. Eye liner should be very thin or none at all. If you do use liner concentrate the line at the outer corner of the eye to make eyes appear larger and lightly line under eyes with a soft line using eye shadow and a cotton swab.
Large Eyes
Large eyes generally have a lot of eyelid showing, and often the most prominent facial feature, so you don’t need very much makeup to accentuate them. To keep eyes from overpowering the face, keep eye makeup subtle with less shading or contrast. Avoid shimmery or bright colors and place shadow in the center of the lid, blending outward, a little inward and up toward crease. Don’t use several different colors, use just one color of shadow and liner. Large eyes can handle lining all the way around eyes or heavy liner. Applying liner to the inner rim of bottom lids will make eyes appear smaller. Mascara should be applied just on top lashes since mascara on the bottom lashes can look too doll-like.
To prevent eye makeup from coming off, running or smudging by the end of the day: lightly moisturize eye area with an oil free lotion, apply foundation and then loose powder (even if you don’t like wearing foundation it helps to wear it at least on your eyes). It creates a base for the eye makeup to adhere to and makes blending colors easier. You can substitute makeup primer for the foundation which is applied in a light film and also creates smoother skin (be sure your moisturizer is oil free and soaks in about 10 minutes before applying primer since it won’t adhere to oily surfaces). Use powder shadow instead of creams or gels which tend to melt and fade faster. Avoid using your fingers to apply eye makeup because your fingers have oils that can make colors run. Wearing makeup just on tops of eyes will help avoid smudges and dark circles under eyes.
If you wear glasses, make sure eye makeup is well blended and neat because your glasses will magnify mistakes and keep eye liner thinner since the line will appear bolder through your glasses.
For a fast, easy way to add instant glamour to eyes, dab a bit of lip gloss on lid right above top lashes and blend. Bronze shimmer gloss will work for most complexions.
Crepey or Aging Wrinkled Eyelids
Before applying eye makeup, you might want to moisturize the eye area with a gel that helps tighten the skin up and helps prevent smudging that happens with oils or creams. Avoid applying foundation to eyelids which will collect in the creases and accentuate the crepiness, but do press on some face powder to lids before applying color for a smoother look. Instead of foundation, you could use a makeup primer which acts like a foundation in coverage but will smooth out skin when applied in a thin film. Avoid shimmery eye shadows which reflect light and draw attention to lids. If using cream shadows, be sure it’s not too greasy or too dry and choose colors that are soft matte tones in light to medium colors of nude, taupe, brown, soft grey or lavender so as not to draw too much attention. Stay away from very dark liners.
Under Eye Dark Circles
Avoid liner and eye shadow shades with blue or blue undertones or any dark shades anywhere under eyes. You might want to apply makeup only to upper lids so it draws attention away from the circles and is less likely to smudge under eyes and make circles darker. Always clean up any speckles of dark eye shadow that falls under your eyes. Also see other categories for tips on under eye circles such as “Eyes”, “Aging Skin” and “Revive Eyes and Face”.
Make Eye Color Pop
Your eye color will look more intense if you understate your lips and cheeks and play up your eyes with complimentary colors:
Brown eyes-wear green or gold
Blue eyes-wear orange or peach
Green eyes-wear purple or copper
Hazel eyes-wear blue or olive
Eye Shapes and Correct Makeup Application
Almond-shaped Eyes
Almond shapes are usually larger or longer with a bit of an upturn at the outer corners. Avoid too much dark shadow and liner at the same time and only line the outer two thirds of eyes. Apply lighter shade from lash to brow with medium shade on lid. Then place dark shadow on outer third of lid. Applying a dot of shimmery shadow on the outer half of brow bone is also a nice look. Apply generous coats of mascara and comb well to separate.
Close-set Eyes
Close-set eyes are often due to a slender nose and makes your face look smaller, or all your features crowded in the center of your face. To create the illusion of width between eyes, apply color wide apart. Start shadow well away from eye's inner corner blending up and out with the more intense shade at outer limits. Line only the outer half of the eye and then apply light shadow to inner corners. Concentrate mascara on outer lashes as well. Another trick you can use to spread eyes apart is to put a dot of very light eye shadow at the inner corner of eyes next to nose and blend inward toward upper and lower lids. This will work even if you aren’t wearing any other eye shadow colors.
Deep-set or Hooded Eyes
These eyes don’t have a visible crease, such as Asian eyes. Go easy with eye makeup and avoid dark shades on the lids but line upper lash line with a dark shade, with liner on the bottom lids optional and smudge to soften. To make eyes pop, use a light shimmery shadow on brow bones and a slightly darker shadow on lids to just above the crease and apply plenty of mascara. To add a little drama, you can create a bit of an upturn to liner at the outer corners and blend some medium color shadow along eyelids and follow the upturn, blending upward toward brows. Curling lashes also helps eyes pop.
Round Eyes
To make them appear more almond-shaped, use lighter shadow all over top lid, darker in entire crease. Line top and bottom lid, extend liner out and up at end. Mascara for top lashes only, with more on outer half.
Wide-set Eyes
Apply a light to medium shade from lash to brow. Place darker shadow shade near eye's inner corners, blending across lid and feathering out lightly towards temples. Focus liner and mascara on inner corners to help pull the look of eyes together.
Small Eyes
Make eyes look larger and add sparkle by using a light colored shimmery pencil or shadow (for very fair skin use white and for dark skin use gold, others can use shimmery pink or silver for cool complexions and shimmery gold or yellow for warm complexions). Apply it in a small ‘V’ at inner corner of eyes with one side of the V going along top eyelid and other side of V along the bottom lid. Small eyes typically have little or no lids showing so avoid dark colors that make eyes look smaller and lids disappear. Never line all the way around small eyes and keep lines thinner, lining just the outer third of eyes, top and bottom, then soften the line with a sponge or cotton swab. Use lighter shades in both liner and shadow such as pale gray, soft brown, taupe, smokey lavender or other subtle color. Lining the lower inner lid area with light taupe or bluish white pencil will make eyes look bigger. Pale shimmery shadows will look good on lids up to the crease and a little added at the inner corners of eyes and a little on the bottom lid which will make eyes stand out. Use an eyelash curler to help open up eyes and make them appear larger as well.
Eyes with little or no lids showing
Apply a silvery green, violet or blue shadow beginning near lashes and fading up to the crease to brighten eyes and add pizzazz. Eye liner should be very thin or none at all. If you do use liner concentrate the line at the outer corner of the eye to make eyes appear larger and lightly line under eyes with a soft line using eye shadow and a cotton swab.
Large Eyes
Large eyes generally have a lot of eyelid showing, and often the most prominent facial feature, so you don’t need very much makeup to accentuate them. To keep eyes from overpowering the face, keep eye makeup subtle with less shading or contrast. Avoid shimmery or bright colors and place shadow in the center of the lid, blending outward, a little inward and up toward crease. Don’t use several different colors, use just one color of shadow and liner. Large eyes can handle lining all the way around eyes or heavy liner. Applying liner to the inner rim of bottom lids will make eyes appear smaller. Mascara should be applied just on top lashes since mascara on the bottom lashes can look too doll-like.
Mascara Application and Tips
All About Mascara
-If you want to wear just one item of makeup, it should be mascara.
-Twirl the mascara brush in the tube, don’t pump-this pushes air into the tube drying it out faster and could introduce bacteria.
-Remove excess on the brush by rubbing it against the bottle opening or blot on a tissue.
-You can unclump mascara by lightly misting the brush, wait 10 seconds then apply. It will dilute it just enough to leave color without lumps, but don’t use on waterproof mascara.
-For best application of mascara to top lashes, open your eyes wide while lifting your eye brows, place the brush as close to the roots of your lashes as possible and wiggle or saw back and forth before brushing out to get more product applied to every lash. Lightly brush the tip back and forth across lower lashes.
-Apply 2-3 coats of mascara, letting each coat dry in between application for longer, thicker lashes.
-Applying too much mascara will probably cause flaking or smearing under your eyes and a hard, spiky appearance. It does not look better to wear excessive mascara, it just looks gunky and overdone and could cause your lashes to break or fall out.
-Clean up mascara mistakes after the mascara dries so it won’t smear. It should flake off easily with a swab or sponge.
-Using mascara or liner on bottom lashes can make under eye circles worse so skip the bottom if you are dark under your eyes.
-If you’re over 30 or have fair skin and hair, avoid black mascara which can look too harsh. Go with dark brown instead.
-Save the colored mascaras, such as purple, blue or green for special fun events and not for the office where it looks unprofessional. But if you want to use colored mascara, maroon color will make blue or green eyes really pop. Blue mascara will help make the whites of your eyes whiter.
-Avoid using waterproof mascara on a regular basis since it’s difficult to remove without pulling lashes out and stretching delicate skin around the eyes that causes bags over time. Even waterproof mascaras can smudge when in contact with oils or creams so be sure to use light, oil free creams or gel moisturizers that contain sunscreen and nutrients. Gels will also help tighten skin around your eyes. Many of the water soluble mascaras will work just as well unless you will be swimming or shedding tears.
-If using an eye lash curler, use before applying mascara and make sure it has a rubber edge to protect against pulling out hairs. Curling can make lashes more noticeable and open up your eyes but can look strange if they are bent in an unnatural angle so don’t overdo it. Gently squeeze evenly and hold for a few seconds and continuing the length of your lashes from roots to ends. You can use the curler after just one coat of mascara if you’re very careful and it will help hold the curl in your lashes better.
-Clean out a used up mascara tube and use it to fill with petroleum jelly and use in place of mascara to define and lengthen lashes if you are sensitive to makeup. Or keep the old brush to use as a brow tamer or separate lashes that clump together.
-There are many choices of mascara out there: thickening, lengthening, curling or just color tint, clear and waterproof or a combination. You need to decide what will work best for your lash type and lifestyle.
-You don’t need to spend a lot of money on mascara. Some cheaper ones work just as well and sometimes better than expensive ones. When looking for one you like, begin with cheaper brands and work your way up until you find the perfect choice without wasting lots of money. Cover Girl Great Lash is still one of the top selling mascaras and has been for decades-and it’s extremely reasonable.
-If you want to wear just one item of makeup, it should be mascara.
-Twirl the mascara brush in the tube, don’t pump-this pushes air into the tube drying it out faster and could introduce bacteria.
-Remove excess on the brush by rubbing it against the bottle opening or blot on a tissue.
-You can unclump mascara by lightly misting the brush, wait 10 seconds then apply. It will dilute it just enough to leave color without lumps, but don’t use on waterproof mascara.
-For best application of mascara to top lashes, open your eyes wide while lifting your eye brows, place the brush as close to the roots of your lashes as possible and wiggle or saw back and forth before brushing out to get more product applied to every lash. Lightly brush the tip back and forth across lower lashes.
-Apply 2-3 coats of mascara, letting each coat dry in between application for longer, thicker lashes.
-Applying too much mascara will probably cause flaking or smearing under your eyes and a hard, spiky appearance. It does not look better to wear excessive mascara, it just looks gunky and overdone and could cause your lashes to break or fall out.
-Clean up mascara mistakes after the mascara dries so it won’t smear. It should flake off easily with a swab or sponge.
-Using mascara or liner on bottom lashes can make under eye circles worse so skip the bottom if you are dark under your eyes.
-If you’re over 30 or have fair skin and hair, avoid black mascara which can look too harsh. Go with dark brown instead.
-Save the colored mascaras, such as purple, blue or green for special fun events and not for the office where it looks unprofessional. But if you want to use colored mascara, maroon color will make blue or green eyes really pop. Blue mascara will help make the whites of your eyes whiter.
-Avoid using waterproof mascara on a regular basis since it’s difficult to remove without pulling lashes out and stretching delicate skin around the eyes that causes bags over time. Even waterproof mascaras can smudge when in contact with oils or creams so be sure to use light, oil free creams or gel moisturizers that contain sunscreen and nutrients. Gels will also help tighten skin around your eyes. Many of the water soluble mascaras will work just as well unless you will be swimming or shedding tears.
-If using an eye lash curler, use before applying mascara and make sure it has a rubber edge to protect against pulling out hairs. Curling can make lashes more noticeable and open up your eyes but can look strange if they are bent in an unnatural angle so don’t overdo it. Gently squeeze evenly and hold for a few seconds and continuing the length of your lashes from roots to ends. You can use the curler after just one coat of mascara if you’re very careful and it will help hold the curl in your lashes better.
-Clean out a used up mascara tube and use it to fill with petroleum jelly and use in place of mascara to define and lengthen lashes if you are sensitive to makeup. Or keep the old brush to use as a brow tamer or separate lashes that clump together.
-There are many choices of mascara out there: thickening, lengthening, curling or just color tint, clear and waterproof or a combination. You need to decide what will work best for your lash type and lifestyle.
-You don’t need to spend a lot of money on mascara. Some cheaper ones work just as well and sometimes better than expensive ones. When looking for one you like, begin with cheaper brands and work your way up until you find the perfect choice without wasting lots of money. Cover Girl Great Lash is still one of the top selling mascaras and has been for decades-and it’s extremely reasonable.
Blemishes: Preparation H, Visine, Potatoes and Green
Flatten and Treat a Raised Inflamed Pimple:
Rub hemorrhoid cream into the blemish to help take out the swelling or press an ice cube wrapped in a cloth over the raised area of acne. This may not take much of the redness out and if it is still red, dab some Visine eye drops on it to reduce redness. A slice of raw potato placed on the zit for about 10-15 minutes will also help draw out the redness. If you need to camoflage the redness, you can lightly apply a spot of green concealer over the red area before applying foundation. Red and green are opposite each other on the color wheel-when you mix the two together, they cancel each other out, neutralizing the red. After placing a spot of the concealer over the zit, touch it lightly with your fingertip to help the concealer 'melt' into your skin and blend better. Then apply foundation and powder. If it still shows, apply a touch of flesh tone concealer, touch lightly again and powder-repeat until it disappears. If you have a lot of bumps to deal with, do not draw attention to them. If your cheeks are affected, skip the blush and focus on another area of your face for makeup such as eyes. If your chin is broken out, don't draw attention to your chin with deep or bright lipsticks. For forehead breakouts, hide the area with bangs (clean hair only) or shift focus lower to your lips with brighter lipstick.
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
Rub hemorrhoid cream into the blemish to help take out the swelling or press an ice cube wrapped in a cloth over the raised area of acne. This may not take much of the redness out and if it is still red, dab some Visine eye drops on it to reduce redness. A slice of raw potato placed on the zit for about 10-15 minutes will also help draw out the redness. If you need to camoflage the redness, you can lightly apply a spot of green concealer over the red area before applying foundation. Red and green are opposite each other on the color wheel-when you mix the two together, they cancel each other out, neutralizing the red. After placing a spot of the concealer over the zit, touch it lightly with your fingertip to help the concealer 'melt' into your skin and blend better. Then apply foundation and powder. If it still shows, apply a touch of flesh tone concealer, touch lightly again and powder-repeat until it disappears. If you have a lot of bumps to deal with, do not draw attention to them. If your cheeks are affected, skip the blush and focus on another area of your face for makeup such as eyes. If your chin is broken out, don't draw attention to your chin with deep or bright lipsticks. For forehead breakouts, hide the area with bangs (clean hair only) or shift focus lower to your lips with brighter lipstick.
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
Eye Placement and Tips
Close Set Eyes
Generally female models are chosen because they have wide set eyes which appears more feminine (Katie Holmes is a very good example of someone with wide set eyes). Having close set eyes makes your features look crowded in the center of your face and makes the rest of your face look large. It’s ok for men to have close set or small eyes since making the face look larger appears more masculine. If you think that your eyes are close set, do not wear glasses with large frames as this will make your eyes seem even closer. Utilize eye makeup techniques concentrating on the outer half of eyes and contouring at the temple area to help draw eyes apart if your eyes are close set. And only pluck stray hairs in between brows to make your brows closer together which makes eyes appear set wider apart as well.
Generally female models are chosen because they have wide set eyes which appears more feminine (Katie Holmes is a very good example of someone with wide set eyes). Having close set eyes makes your features look crowded in the center of your face and makes the rest of your face look large. It’s ok for men to have close set or small eyes since making the face look larger appears more masculine. If you think that your eyes are close set, do not wear glasses with large frames as this will make your eyes seem even closer. Utilize eye makeup techniques concentrating on the outer half of eyes and contouring at the temple area to help draw eyes apart if your eyes are close set. And only pluck stray hairs in between brows to make your brows closer together which makes eyes appear set wider apart as well.
Makeup Touch Ups
Touching Up Makeup
- Remove all lipstick. If your skin is oily, blot the excess shine off by pressing either tissue or oil-blotting papers over face until the shine disappears before applying more makeup.
- After removing excess oil, use a fresh makeup sponge and smooth out foundation, blush, and contours with a gentle buffing motion, smoothing out things as you buff.
- Blend on a little extra concealer under the eyes if the area has darkened.
- If you need a little more foundation over blemishes or discolorations, blend it on now, avoiding blush and contour area.
- Dust a light layer of powder over the face.
- Apply more blush or contours if needed, but in a very sheer application since color grabs more over makeup that has been on the face awhile. Any areas that end up with too strong of color can be lightly swept with a synthetic makeup sponge to soften the shade.
- To touch up eyeliner, particularly under eyes if it has smeared, use the corner or side of your makeup sponge to remove any smeared eyeliner and reapply as necessary.
- If your eyeshadow has creased, blot the area lightly with a tissue or oil-blotting paper and then use a brush or sponge to smooth out color. Apply a powder over the area to even out the shadow and reapply color as needed to make your eye makeup look balanced. If you are heading for a more formal event apply shadow slightly darker than normal in the crease and add a little extra mascara if it has worn off.
- Reapply lipstick after touching up face makeup.
- Remove all lipstick. If your skin is oily, blot the excess shine off by pressing either tissue or oil-blotting papers over face until the shine disappears before applying more makeup.
- After removing excess oil, use a fresh makeup sponge and smooth out foundation, blush, and contours with a gentle buffing motion, smoothing out things as you buff.
- Blend on a little extra concealer under the eyes if the area has darkened.
- If you need a little more foundation over blemishes or discolorations, blend it on now, avoiding blush and contour area.
- Dust a light layer of powder over the face.
- Apply more blush or contours if needed, but in a very sheer application since color grabs more over makeup that has been on the face awhile. Any areas that end up with too strong of color can be lightly swept with a synthetic makeup sponge to soften the shade.
- To touch up eyeliner, particularly under eyes if it has smeared, use the corner or side of your makeup sponge to remove any smeared eyeliner and reapply as necessary.
- If your eyeshadow has creased, blot the area lightly with a tissue or oil-blotting paper and then use a brush or sponge to smooth out color. Apply a powder over the area to even out the shadow and reapply color as needed to make your eye makeup look balanced. If you are heading for a more formal event apply shadow slightly darker than normal in the crease and add a little extra mascara if it has worn off.
- Reapply lipstick after touching up face makeup.
Professional Photography Makeup Contouring
Contour Makeup Techniques (Lowlights and Highlights)
A good alternative for makeup bronzers is to use it for contour shaping of the face which is what many makeup artists use to contour for professional photography makeup. Contours are used to shape the face and to play up or down facial features. For professional photography makeup, the heavy, oil based pancake makeup covers all flaws and discolorations, but it also tends to make the face appear flat and wide, particularly with the bright lights professional photographers use (and on fashion runways and stage); it washes out your features and lightens up all shadows, so applying contours (lowlights and/or highlights) is essential to achieve depth and dimension to your face and facial feature correction can be done at the same time. You can utilize the same techniques for everyday makeup or for special events but on a lesser scale so it doesn’t look artificial. Contours should be very carefully blended so they are not obvious. You don’t want to look like you have a racing stripe under your cheekbones. Use gentle zigzag or circular motions to blend the edges well so the edges fade into your foundation. You can play with light and dark shadows to minimize or emphasize features and alter the shape of your face. Remember the principal that dark shades make objects recede or look smaller, and light shades make objects appear larger or come forward. Just don't overdue it. To make sure the shadows look right, test a technique, then take a digital photo of yourself to check the results since it can be hard to determine in a mirror.
Contour Lowlights (darker shades):
Use bronzer one to two shades darker than your foundation. Contours can be used to shape the cheek bones, forehead, nose, chin, as well as creating a more exotic look for eyes.
Cheek bones:
To enhance cheek bones and make them more prominent and full, apply bronzer just under the cheekbones (and a highlighter to the top of cheekbones if desired for better results). Brushing bronzer from the hairline near the area where the ear attaches at the top, the contour should follow the line of your cheek bones, just under the bone (if you sucked your cheeks in, it would be the hollow area), and fade to nothing approximately two finger widths away from the corner of your mouth. Be careful not to get contour shadows on the jaw line and avoid angling the shadow downward toward your chin which results in a frowning look to the face. Blush should be applied as normal on the apples of the cheek starting in the center of the fattest part and blended back and up into contours so the two blend slightly. Don't over do it and take care not to get blush close to your eyes or nose which will result in a sunburned look. The blush color should be a light color and add just a healthy glow to your cheeks. If your face is very wide and full or cheekbones too prominent, you can play with shadows to downplay the width by lightly dusting the sides of your face with bronzer, concentrating the most color in the middle and fading upward and downward, then apply a bit deeper shade of blush than your skin would normally blush to, placed just slightly more to the outside of the apple, blended up and out toward temples. When applying shadows to cheekbones or sides of your face, use care not to pull the shadow over your jawbone which will make your jaw look like it disappears into your neck and lose jawline definition. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see girls do in my makeup classes. And be sure to pull color into your hairline so you won't have a pale strip that stands out. Also see tips under Hair catagories for styles that help alter or camoflage facial shapes.
Nose:
To slim a wide nose, apply contour shadows on each side of your nose, blending carefully. Adding a thin line of highlighter down the center of your nose will slim it even more. Applying a slight shadow directly over the sides of just your nostrils will diminish the size of them. Just a touch of color is all that's needed to make a difference. When I show this trick to girls in my classes, they are amazed at the difference when we compare the side with the slight shadow and the one without. Placing a spot of bronzer to the center of the nose or bridge will help disguise a prominent bump. Place a little shadow just under the tip of the nose to shorten a long nose.
Forehead:
If you have a wide forehead, apply a light bronzer to each temple and blend well up and into the hairline. This will create a shadow effect causing the head to look more rounded and make your forehead appear narrower. If your forehead is high, place the shadow at the top of forehead near the hairline (and into the hairline) and blend well downward. For a large forehead (wide and high) place the shadow in a ‘C’ shape starting at the center of the forehead at hairline and sweeping across and downward along hairline into temple area. If you have sharp angles to your forehead (as with square or diamond shape faces), soften the angular areas by applying shadows on them into the hairline. For heart shape faces with large foreheads, dust bronzer all along the hairline, fading as you get to the temples.
Chin:
To shorten a long chin, place bronzer on the tip of chin to shorten it or round out a pointy chin. For a broad chin, minimize it's width by placing a touch of shadow to either side of the center point of chin. To minimize a double chin, lightly apply bronzer just under the jaw line and blend it down, fading towards your neck. If you just have a little extra fat under your chin, lightly dusting bronzer on the fatty part will help disguise it.
Eyes:
Bronzer applied at the outer corner of the eye going upward toward the temple will give the eyes a more exotic, cat eye look. This should appear as an extension of your eye shadow for the correct application with the two blended together carefully.
Contour Highlights (lighter shades):
Highlights are a shade or two lighter than your foundation that can be used to either correct facial features or add radiance to your complexion. Using a highlighter over your foundation high on your cheek bones will give a dewy, youthful, glowing effect to your face and can create fuller, more prominent cheek bones. Dot the highlighter along the highest part of your cheekbones, beginning about the center of your eyes and up and out toward hairline, blending carefully with a patting or stippling motion. Highlights are best to use instead of lowlights if you have a very long or narrow face and want to widen it. Placing the cheek bone highlights more horizontal will help widen your face and you can apply a bit of highlight along a weak or narrow jawline to help widen or define it. Contour brow bones or eyelids to make them look radiant and stand out. Highlighter placed in a V shape between your brows and blended well can also create a radiant glow to your face and help a small forehead look larger. To utilize highlights for other facial corrections: putting a strip of highlight down the bridge of the nose will make a small nose look larger or longer. To make a small chin appear larger, apply highlighter to the center of the chin, directly under the center of the lip. Pearly highlighter can be placed in your décolleté as well for luminescence. You can add a drop of it to your normal foundation to brighten up your makeup or select areas to highlight. For pearl or luminescent highlighters, choose one with gold (for warm skin tones) or pink (for cool skin tones) and it should be lighter than your foundation by only one or two shades. Avoid using white tones to highlight since it can look severe, and on darker skin it will appear ashy. Also note that when correcting facial features with these techniques, you don't want to make too many corrections to all areas for everyday makeup. It may look ok for the stage but will look clownish up close. Select the feature you most want to play up or down and concentrate on that area instead of all over your face.
Professional Photography Makeup Foundation and Basics
For foundation, the industry favorite is the tried and true "Pancake" oil based makeup since it is heavy and covers everything depending on how thick you apply it. I instruct the girls to apply heavier in the center of your face where blotchiness and redness is most prominent and 'sweeping' the remainder toward the hairline and under jaw. You want to make sure all traces of redness, blotches, blemishes, undereye circles, etc. are erased. I prefer the 'stippling' method of applying pancake makeup with a sponge for best coverage and finish. Putting a thin layer over eyelids helps remove any darkness or redness so eyeshadow goes on true to color, really opens eyes and assists in blending makeup. The heavier the foundation is applied, the more powder it will hold and should be powdered well (with translucent powder so as not to change your foundation shade). Eyelids especially need extra powdering so they don't crease up under hot lighting. After powdering your foundation, you would then want to apply all your contours needed as described above and then put on blush which goes on the apples of cheeks and blended back into cheek contours. See the catagory on "Makeup Tips" for proper placement of blush and color choices as well as eye makeup tips. You can then apply whatever eye makeup look desired but keep in mind that with professional photography, stage, runway and TV, the lighting is very strong so you have to compensate by applying makeup heavier, darker and define your features more. Lips should always be lined so your lip line does not disappear in the bright lighting. It takes a little practice and experimenting to determine just how much more makeup you should wear with extra lighting. If you are interested in commercial work, television use to always use the traditional pancake makeup, but with the creation of High Definition TV and the amount of detail it shows, pancake makeup will be too obvious now and I would expect TV to move to airbrushing stage makeup for a more perfect finish. That doesn't mean you should go out and purchase an airbrush machine for your makeup-they are very expensive, most TV stations will probably have one on hand for doing makeup.
A good alternative for makeup bronzers is to use it for contour shaping of the face which is what many makeup artists use to contour for professional photography makeup. Contours are used to shape the face and to play up or down facial features. For professional photography makeup, the heavy, oil based pancake makeup covers all flaws and discolorations, but it also tends to make the face appear flat and wide, particularly with the bright lights professional photographers use (and on fashion runways and stage); it washes out your features and lightens up all shadows, so applying contours (lowlights and/or highlights) is essential to achieve depth and dimension to your face and facial feature correction can be done at the same time. You can utilize the same techniques for everyday makeup or for special events but on a lesser scale so it doesn’t look artificial. Contours should be very carefully blended so they are not obvious. You don’t want to look like you have a racing stripe under your cheekbones. Use gentle zigzag or circular motions to blend the edges well so the edges fade into your foundation. You can play with light and dark shadows to minimize or emphasize features and alter the shape of your face. Remember the principal that dark shades make objects recede or look smaller, and light shades make objects appear larger or come forward. Just don't overdue it. To make sure the shadows look right, test a technique, then take a digital photo of yourself to check the results since it can be hard to determine in a mirror.
Contour Lowlights (darker shades):
Use bronzer one to two shades darker than your foundation. Contours can be used to shape the cheek bones, forehead, nose, chin, as well as creating a more exotic look for eyes.
Cheek bones:
To enhance cheek bones and make them more prominent and full, apply bronzer just under the cheekbones (and a highlighter to the top of cheekbones if desired for better results). Brushing bronzer from the hairline near the area where the ear attaches at the top, the contour should follow the line of your cheek bones, just under the bone (if you sucked your cheeks in, it would be the hollow area), and fade to nothing approximately two finger widths away from the corner of your mouth. Be careful not to get contour shadows on the jaw line and avoid angling the shadow downward toward your chin which results in a frowning look to the face. Blush should be applied as normal on the apples of the cheek starting in the center of the fattest part and blended back and up into contours so the two blend slightly. Don't over do it and take care not to get blush close to your eyes or nose which will result in a sunburned look. The blush color should be a light color and add just a healthy glow to your cheeks. If your face is very wide and full or cheekbones too prominent, you can play with shadows to downplay the width by lightly dusting the sides of your face with bronzer, concentrating the most color in the middle and fading upward and downward, then apply a bit deeper shade of blush than your skin would normally blush to, placed just slightly more to the outside of the apple, blended up and out toward temples. When applying shadows to cheekbones or sides of your face, use care not to pull the shadow over your jawbone which will make your jaw look like it disappears into your neck and lose jawline definition. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see girls do in my makeup classes. And be sure to pull color into your hairline so you won't have a pale strip that stands out. Also see tips under Hair catagories for styles that help alter or camoflage facial shapes.
Nose:
To slim a wide nose, apply contour shadows on each side of your nose, blending carefully. Adding a thin line of highlighter down the center of your nose will slim it even more. Applying a slight shadow directly over the sides of just your nostrils will diminish the size of them. Just a touch of color is all that's needed to make a difference. When I show this trick to girls in my classes, they are amazed at the difference when we compare the side with the slight shadow and the one without. Placing a spot of bronzer to the center of the nose or bridge will help disguise a prominent bump. Place a little shadow just under the tip of the nose to shorten a long nose.
Forehead:
If you have a wide forehead, apply a light bronzer to each temple and blend well up and into the hairline. This will create a shadow effect causing the head to look more rounded and make your forehead appear narrower. If your forehead is high, place the shadow at the top of forehead near the hairline (and into the hairline) and blend well downward. For a large forehead (wide and high) place the shadow in a ‘C’ shape starting at the center of the forehead at hairline and sweeping across and downward along hairline into temple area. If you have sharp angles to your forehead (as with square or diamond shape faces), soften the angular areas by applying shadows on them into the hairline. For heart shape faces with large foreheads, dust bronzer all along the hairline, fading as you get to the temples.
Chin:
To shorten a long chin, place bronzer on the tip of chin to shorten it or round out a pointy chin. For a broad chin, minimize it's width by placing a touch of shadow to either side of the center point of chin. To minimize a double chin, lightly apply bronzer just under the jaw line and blend it down, fading towards your neck. If you just have a little extra fat under your chin, lightly dusting bronzer on the fatty part will help disguise it.
Eyes:
Bronzer applied at the outer corner of the eye going upward toward the temple will give the eyes a more exotic, cat eye look. This should appear as an extension of your eye shadow for the correct application with the two blended together carefully.
Contour Highlights (lighter shades):
Highlights are a shade or two lighter than your foundation that can be used to either correct facial features or add radiance to your complexion. Using a highlighter over your foundation high on your cheek bones will give a dewy, youthful, glowing effect to your face and can create fuller, more prominent cheek bones. Dot the highlighter along the highest part of your cheekbones, beginning about the center of your eyes and up and out toward hairline, blending carefully with a patting or stippling motion. Highlights are best to use instead of lowlights if you have a very long or narrow face and want to widen it. Placing the cheek bone highlights more horizontal will help widen your face and you can apply a bit of highlight along a weak or narrow jawline to help widen or define it. Contour brow bones or eyelids to make them look radiant and stand out. Highlighter placed in a V shape between your brows and blended well can also create a radiant glow to your face and help a small forehead look larger. To utilize highlights for other facial corrections: putting a strip of highlight down the bridge of the nose will make a small nose look larger or longer. To make a small chin appear larger, apply highlighter to the center of the chin, directly under the center of the lip. Pearly highlighter can be placed in your décolleté as well for luminescence. You can add a drop of it to your normal foundation to brighten up your makeup or select areas to highlight. For pearl or luminescent highlighters, choose one with gold (for warm skin tones) or pink (for cool skin tones) and it should be lighter than your foundation by only one or two shades. Avoid using white tones to highlight since it can look severe, and on darker skin it will appear ashy. Also note that when correcting facial features with these techniques, you don't want to make too many corrections to all areas for everyday makeup. It may look ok for the stage but will look clownish up close. Select the feature you most want to play up or down and concentrate on that area instead of all over your face.
Professional Photography Makeup Foundation and Basics
For foundation, the industry favorite is the tried and true "Pancake" oil based makeup since it is heavy and covers everything depending on how thick you apply it. I instruct the girls to apply heavier in the center of your face where blotchiness and redness is most prominent and 'sweeping' the remainder toward the hairline and under jaw. You want to make sure all traces of redness, blotches, blemishes, undereye circles, etc. are erased. I prefer the 'stippling' method of applying pancake makeup with a sponge for best coverage and finish. Putting a thin layer over eyelids helps remove any darkness or redness so eyeshadow goes on true to color, really opens eyes and assists in blending makeup. The heavier the foundation is applied, the more powder it will hold and should be powdered well (with translucent powder so as not to change your foundation shade). Eyelids especially need extra powdering so they don't crease up under hot lighting. After powdering your foundation, you would then want to apply all your contours needed as described above and then put on blush which goes on the apples of cheeks and blended back into cheek contours. See the catagory on "Makeup Tips" for proper placement of blush and color choices as well as eye makeup tips. You can then apply whatever eye makeup look desired but keep in mind that with professional photography, stage, runway and TV, the lighting is very strong so you have to compensate by applying makeup heavier, darker and define your features more. Lips should always be lined so your lip line does not disappear in the bright lighting. It takes a little practice and experimenting to determine just how much more makeup you should wear with extra lighting. If you are interested in commercial work, television use to always use the traditional pancake makeup, but with the creation of High Definition TV and the amount of detail it shows, pancake makeup will be too obvious now and I would expect TV to move to airbrushing stage makeup for a more perfect finish. That doesn't mean you should go out and purchase an airbrush machine for your makeup-they are very expensive, most TV stations will probably have one on hand for doing makeup.
Bronzers and Makeup
Bronzer Application Tips
If you apply bronzer to your face for a ‘sun-kissed’ effect, you could end up with skin that has no natural looking depth if you apply too much all over. To counteract the flatness of color, use a brighter shade of blush on the apples of cheeks and blend edges well in circular strokes. Be sure bronzer is applied just to the areas where the sun would naturally hit your skin so it resembles a real sun-kissed look (bridge of nose, top of forehead, cheekbones and tip of chin) and choose a bronzer that is only a shade or two deeper than your skin tone. Be very careful about applying bronzers all over the face-have you ever seen someone from a distance with lots of bronzer on and their eyes look like ‘reverse racoons’ being left white? Be careful you don’t make this mistake-it’s hard to tell up close you made the mistake but it shows up very plain from a distance or in photographs. This can also occur by putting too light a shade of concealer under your eyes as well.
If you apply bronzer to your face for a ‘sun-kissed’ effect, you could end up with skin that has no natural looking depth if you apply too much all over. To counteract the flatness of color, use a brighter shade of blush on the apples of cheeks and blend edges well in circular strokes. Be sure bronzer is applied just to the areas where the sun would naturally hit your skin so it resembles a real sun-kissed look (bridge of nose, top of forehead, cheekbones and tip of chin) and choose a bronzer that is only a shade or two deeper than your skin tone. Be very careful about applying bronzers all over the face-have you ever seen someone from a distance with lots of bronzer on and their eyes look like ‘reverse racoons’ being left white? Be careful you don’t make this mistake-it’s hard to tell up close you made the mistake but it shows up very plain from a distance or in photographs. This can also occur by putting too light a shade of concealer under your eyes as well.
Natural Makeup Remover
Inexpensive Easy Makeup Removers
To remove makeup naturally without clogging pores and moisturize skin at the same time, use unrefined pure oils like jojoba, wheat germ or rose hip oil. Massage it directly into your skin or wipe skin with a cotton pad saturated with the oil. Finish by gently wiping skin with a steamy, damp cloth.
And most any heavy skin cream will work as a makeup remover if you don't have oily skin. Nivea Cream
is great as a makeup remover for dry or aging skin, is very inexpensive and has been around a very long time all over the world. Opt for the Nivea Cream in the jar which is the original thicker version and not the lotions. Yogurt will also gently clean makeup off while moisturizing skin and nourishing.
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
To remove makeup naturally without clogging pores and moisturize skin at the same time, use unrefined pure oils like jojoba, wheat germ or rose hip oil. Massage it directly into your skin or wipe skin with a cotton pad saturated with the oil. Finish by gently wiping skin with a steamy, damp cloth.
And most any heavy skin cream will work as a makeup remover if you don't have oily skin. Nivea Cream
is great as a makeup remover for dry or aging skin, is very inexpensive and has been around a very long time all over the world. Opt for the Nivea Cream in the jar which is the original thicker version and not the lotions. Yogurt will also gently clean makeup off while moisturizing skin and nourishing.For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
Eyebrow Tips and Shaping
Taming and Shaping Brows - Fix Missing Brows
- Your best brow shape is your natural one but removing the stray hairs under your arch and outward will open your eyes dramatically. A lot of stray hairs under your brow will also prevent you from getting the perfect eye makeup effect.
- Tweeze brows no further in than the inner corner of eye, taper slightly toward outer end.
- Your brows should 'frame' your eyes well so don't make them too thin or remove the tail end. Take a look at the movie queens from the 1950's for ideas on perfect eye framing.
- To open "closed" eyes: look straight ahead, where your pupil is, arch your eyebrow higher by tweezing thinner from this point outward.
- Before you pluck your eyebrows, brush them up and then sideways. This shows the natural pattern of your eyebrow and can show any unruly hairs that need to come out.
- Small eyes: make your brows a little thicker by building them up just a bit on top to emphasize them. Clear out straggly hairs underneath, and arch them slightly in the outer third to give more space.
- Deep-set eyes: again enlarge the space between the eyes and brows; raise the brows slightly by penciling in a little above the bone.
- Close set eyes: widen the space between the brows a little by plucking, and extend the pencil line at the ends.
- Wide set eyes: pencil eyebrows a little closer to the nose, and do not extend them out at the ends
- Bug eyes: tweeze out any hairs that grow down too far over your eyes and raise the brows slightly from below.
- The tail should extend at least in line with the outer corner of your eye.
- Never overpluck: often plucked hairs don’t grow back in and as you get older your brows become thinner and lighter and you may be sorry by making them thinner when you’re young. If they appear too bushy, instead of plucking to thin them out, trim the hairs instead. A good way to do this is to brush them straight up and trim across and then straight down and trim again.
- Choose an eyebrow pencil or powder in a shade slightly lighter than your natural brow color to fill in any bare spots.
-To lighten up black brows, use bronze mascara and lightly brush over brows to tone them down.
- To tame brows, put lip balm or clear gloss on them or spritz your pinky with hair spray and run over them and then brush in the direction you want.
- If you wear bifocals, try wearing them upside down to pluck your eyebrows.
- For plucking eyebrows and other small areas for minimal pain, try baby ambesol (for teething pain). It numbs the area in seconds, doesn’t drip and wipes right off when you're done.
FOR MISSING BROWS
- If your brows are sparse, missing the tail end or you are missing eye brows altogether, it is possible to get them tatooed on. This should be done by someone trained in cosmetic permanent makeup application. Never use a traditional tatoo shop for your eye brows. Keep in mind that "permanent makeup" is really not completely permanent. It generally fades over about 2 years depending on how well you take care of it using sunscreens, mild cleansers, etc. Permanent makeup can be used on most any area of the face and even on scars to enhance or disguise areas but it's very pricey. Be aware though that not all permanent makeup technicians are created equal and one with no artistic abilities or unsanitary practices can really mess up your face. Make certain you get references first.
- An alternative to tatooing eye brows is to carefully draw them back in with a pencil using short feathery strokes and use brow sealant to keep them set all day without smudging, or opt for a waterproof pencil.
For thousands more of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
- Your best brow shape is your natural one but removing the stray hairs under your arch and outward will open your eyes dramatically. A lot of stray hairs under your brow will also prevent you from getting the perfect eye makeup effect.
- Tweeze brows no further in than the inner corner of eye, taper slightly toward outer end.
- Your brows should 'frame' your eyes well so don't make them too thin or remove the tail end. Take a look at the movie queens from the 1950's for ideas on perfect eye framing.
- To open "closed" eyes: look straight ahead, where your pupil is, arch your eyebrow higher by tweezing thinner from this point outward.
- Before you pluck your eyebrows, brush them up and then sideways. This shows the natural pattern of your eyebrow and can show any unruly hairs that need to come out.
- Small eyes: make your brows a little thicker by building them up just a bit on top to emphasize them. Clear out straggly hairs underneath, and arch them slightly in the outer third to give more space.
- Deep-set eyes: again enlarge the space between the eyes and brows; raise the brows slightly by penciling in a little above the bone.
- Close set eyes: widen the space between the brows a little by plucking, and extend the pencil line at the ends.
- Wide set eyes: pencil eyebrows a little closer to the nose, and do not extend them out at the ends
- Bug eyes: tweeze out any hairs that grow down too far over your eyes and raise the brows slightly from below.
- The tail should extend at least in line with the outer corner of your eye.
- Never overpluck: often plucked hairs don’t grow back in and as you get older your brows become thinner and lighter and you may be sorry by making them thinner when you’re young. If they appear too bushy, instead of plucking to thin them out, trim the hairs instead. A good way to do this is to brush them straight up and trim across and then straight down and trim again.
- Choose an eyebrow pencil or powder in a shade slightly lighter than your natural brow color to fill in any bare spots.
-To lighten up black brows, use bronze mascara and lightly brush over brows to tone them down.
- To tame brows, put lip balm or clear gloss on them or spritz your pinky with hair spray and run over them and then brush in the direction you want.
- If you wear bifocals, try wearing them upside down to pluck your eyebrows.
- For plucking eyebrows and other small areas for minimal pain, try baby ambesol (for teething pain). It numbs the area in seconds, doesn’t drip and wipes right off when you're done.
FOR MISSING BROWS
- If your brows are sparse, missing the tail end or you are missing eye brows altogether, it is possible to get them tatooed on. This should be done by someone trained in cosmetic permanent makeup application. Never use a traditional tatoo shop for your eye brows. Keep in mind that "permanent makeup" is really not completely permanent. It generally fades over about 2 years depending on how well you take care of it using sunscreens, mild cleansers, etc. Permanent makeup can be used on most any area of the face and even on scars to enhance or disguise areas but it's very pricey. Be aware though that not all permanent makeup technicians are created equal and one with no artistic abilities or unsanitary practices can really mess up your face. Make certain you get references first.
- An alternative to tatooing eye brows is to carefully draw them back in with a pencil using short feathery strokes and use brow sealant to keep them set all day without smudging, or opt for a waterproof pencil.
For thousands more of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
Under Eye Circles
Dark Circles
If you have dark bluish circles under your eyes, it's a result of seeing the color of the blood capillaries under your skin, or even the capillaries leaking blood in the area just like a bruise. Under eye skin is very thin and fragile so treat the area tenderly by not stretching or pulling which will cause damage. Products with vitamin K can help reduce the color, but be sure to keep the area very well moisturized to plump it up and keep it healthy since dry skin is thinner, more translucent and will show the color more. The thicker your skin is, the less you'll notice discoloration under the skin. Using a chemical exfoliant like AHAs over time will help thicken skin as it removes the old skin cells and replaces it with healthier skin with additional collagen. The older you get, the thinner the skin becomes, so keeping it well hydrated with creams containing rich nutrients is very important.
To camoflage the blue circles with makeup, use a little yellow concealer under your foundation. I tell my students to recall their basic art class of the color wheel when concealing unwanted spots. The complimentary colors on the color wheel when mixed together will cancel each other out-so if you have a purple spot you want to cover, using the color opposite of it on the color wheel-yellow-will cancel out the purple. Green concealers will cancel out the red of a bad blemish. And violet concealers will neutralize yellow tone spots. Just be sure to use colored concealers sparingly since using too much will result in a dark brown or ashy looking spot and take care to apply it only on the spot you want to cover and not on any surrounding skin, and always use under your foundation, not over it.
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
If you have dark bluish circles under your eyes, it's a result of seeing the color of the blood capillaries under your skin, or even the capillaries leaking blood in the area just like a bruise. Under eye skin is very thin and fragile so treat the area tenderly by not stretching or pulling which will cause damage. Products with vitamin K can help reduce the color, but be sure to keep the area very well moisturized to plump it up and keep it healthy since dry skin is thinner, more translucent and will show the color more. The thicker your skin is, the less you'll notice discoloration under the skin. Using a chemical exfoliant like AHAs over time will help thicken skin as it removes the old skin cells and replaces it with healthier skin with additional collagen. The older you get, the thinner the skin becomes, so keeping it well hydrated with creams containing rich nutrients is very important.
To camoflage the blue circles with makeup, use a little yellow concealer under your foundation. I tell my students to recall their basic art class of the color wheel when concealing unwanted spots. The complimentary colors on the color wheel when mixed together will cancel each other out-so if you have a purple spot you want to cover, using the color opposite of it on the color wheel-yellow-will cancel out the purple. Green concealers will cancel out the red of a bad blemish. And violet concealers will neutralize yellow tone spots. Just be sure to use colored concealers sparingly since using too much will result in a dark brown or ashy looking spot and take care to apply it only on the spot you want to cover and not on any surrounding skin, and always use under your foundation, not over it.
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
Choosing Lip Color
Whiter Looking Teeth and Lipstick Colors
To make teeth appear whiter, choose darker lipsticks that create the most contrast and shades with cool undertones such as reds with a blue cast to it and pink tones instead of orange based shades which will make less than white teeth look worse. It also helps to pick gloss or satin lipsticks instead of a matte lipstick to keep imperfections less noticeable. But remember that dark shades will make your lips appear smaller and thinner so if your lips are already small, avoid too dark shades and pick a bright or sheer blue-red or pinks.
To make teeth appear whiter, choose darker lipsticks that create the most contrast and shades with cool undertones such as reds with a blue cast to it and pink tones instead of orange based shades which will make less than white teeth look worse. It also helps to pick gloss or satin lipsticks instead of a matte lipstick to keep imperfections less noticeable. But remember that dark shades will make your lips appear smaller and thinner so if your lips are already small, avoid too dark shades and pick a bright or sheer blue-red or pinks.
Under Eye Circles and Makeup
Treating and Camoflaging Blue-Purple or Brown Under Eye Circles
Treat brown colored circles with a cream containing hydroquinone to fade the brown spots over time and treat blue or purple color circles with creams containing vitamin K (vitamin K helps eliminate bruising discolorations elsewhere also). Key to avoiding undereye circles is to keep the skin moisturized-when undereye skin is dry, circles will be darker. As you age, circles become darker since the skin dries out and gets thinner which shows a lot more of the blood vessel color from underneath your skin. To brighten dark circles that are greenish or purplish, use a pink (for purplish) or peach (for greenish) toned corrector base or concealer stick, then layer over that a yellow tone concealer if they are still noticeable. To keep focus on upper part of eye instead of the circles under eyes, don’t line lower lashes and apply brighter pink or peach on apples of your cheeks to draw focus away from undereyes. If eyelid skin is dark or reddened, lighten lids up with a pale shadow. Applying foundation under your eye makeup will also do wonders for lightening and brightening your whole eye area making you look younger, fresh and wide eyed. Avoid using concealers that are more than about 1 shade lighter than your skin or you’ll look like a white eyed raccoon. For aging or dry skin around eyes, go easy on the concealer since too heavy an application can look pasty and age eyes more or create crepiness around eyes.
Treat brown colored circles with a cream containing hydroquinone to fade the brown spots over time and treat blue or purple color circles with creams containing vitamin K (vitamin K helps eliminate bruising discolorations elsewhere also). Key to avoiding undereye circles is to keep the skin moisturized-when undereye skin is dry, circles will be darker. As you age, circles become darker since the skin dries out and gets thinner which shows a lot more of the blood vessel color from underneath your skin. To brighten dark circles that are greenish or purplish, use a pink (for purplish) or peach (for greenish) toned corrector base or concealer stick, then layer over that a yellow tone concealer if they are still noticeable. To keep focus on upper part of eye instead of the circles under eyes, don’t line lower lashes and apply brighter pink or peach on apples of your cheeks to draw focus away from undereyes. If eyelid skin is dark or reddened, lighten lids up with a pale shadow. Applying foundation under your eye makeup will also do wonders for lightening and brightening your whole eye area making you look younger, fresh and wide eyed. Avoid using concealers that are more than about 1 shade lighter than your skin or you’ll look like a white eyed raccoon. For aging or dry skin around eyes, go easy on the concealer since too heavy an application can look pasty and age eyes more or create crepiness around eyes.
Makeup Tips for Aging skin
Eyes and Lips and Cheeks
For aging eyes, use natural looking shades and keep eyes subtle but apply brighter colors on your lips to draw attention away from lines around eyes. Choose a brighter lip color that compliments skin color and helps brighten up your whole face since skin begins to look dull and paler as we age. Avoid very dark colors with makes lips look thinner and can age your face. Also be sure the lipstick is loaded with moisturizers to keep lips moist. Dry lips look older and thinner so stay away from matte lipsticks which dry the lips. Don't forget to add a little color to your brows as well since they fade and thin as well with age. Eyes should be framed well with your brows for a youthful look. Blush should be subtle and a creamy base for dryer, older skin, applied to just the apples of the cheeks and fading up and out along cheekbones.
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
For aging eyes, use natural looking shades and keep eyes subtle but apply brighter colors on your lips to draw attention away from lines around eyes. Choose a brighter lip color that compliments skin color and helps brighten up your whole face since skin begins to look dull and paler as we age. Avoid very dark colors with makes lips look thinner and can age your face. Also be sure the lipstick is loaded with moisturizers to keep lips moist. Dry lips look older and thinner so stay away from matte lipsticks which dry the lips. Don't forget to add a little color to your brows as well since they fade and thin as well with age. Eyes should be framed well with your brows for a youthful look. Blush should be subtle and a creamy base for dryer, older skin, applied to just the apples of the cheeks and fading up and out along cheekbones.
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
Makeup Removers and On-the-go Cleansing
Fast and Cheap Makeup Removers
For a quick and cheap way to clean your face, buy cheap baby wipes. Instead of buying the expensive brands like Ponds facial wipes, go to Target, WalMart or other discount store for fragrance free baby wipes in a generic brand. They are perfect for traveling, hiking or camping trips too for washing up without water. You can also keep a couple 'Wet Naps' packets in your purse for quick clean ups (the type you get when you order BBQ ribs for dinner).
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
For a quick and cheap way to clean your face, buy cheap baby wipes. Instead of buying the expensive brands like Ponds facial wipes, go to Target, WalMart or other discount store for fragrance free baby wipes in a generic brand. They are perfect for traveling, hiking or camping trips too for washing up without water. You can also keep a couple 'Wet Naps' packets in your purse for quick clean ups (the type you get when you order BBQ ribs for dinner).
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm
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