Showing posts with label Model Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Model Tips. Show all posts

How to Choose Makeup Colors for Your Season

Matching up Your Complexion and Hair Color to Makeup
Be sure to match colors to your ‘Season’ (another topic on that to come under ‘Fashion” category). A majority of people are a cool tone, either summer or winter. For cool toned skin: choose cool colors such as pink, rose, burgundy, wine, plum, taupe, silver, gray, charcoal, blue and cool greens, and reds with a blue undertone. Few people are the warm tones of spring or autumn. Natural redheads are generally autumn. For warm tones: choose terra cotta, brick, peach, coral, orange, bronze, gold, caramel, chocolate brown and warm greens and reds. Warm reds have more orange tints in them while cool reds have more violet or blue. Warm greens have more yellow while cool greens have more blue. Violet eye makeup in smokey shades will look good almost universally on all skin tones. Bright, intense blues never look good on anyone so don't even buy it.
Fair Skin & Light Hair
Choose a pale blush, softer eyeshadow and liner colors since too much color will over power your fair coloring. Liner should be soft brown or charcoal, avoid really dark liner. Lips can go lighter or bold depending on whether you are more dressed down or up but for bold colors, choose more of a sheer lipstick or a gloss. Most everyone with very fair skin and hair are cool tone ‘Summer Season’ so you will probably look best in the cool colors.
Fair Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Medium shade blush with medium shades on eyes and lips as well. You want to be somewhere in the middle so you don’t over power the light or the dark. Liner should be medium brown or charcoal. Most dark haired girls with fair skin are ‘Winter Season’ and you’ll probably look best in cool colors. If your eyes are dark, you can get away with some darker shades around your eyes.
Olive Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Brighter blushes or a bronzer and eyes in darker browns or golds. You can also use bright colors and dark liner. Lips can be brick, wine, soft caramel or chocolate brown. Your coloring can handle rich tones. Stay away from bright orangy and pinky shades which will bring out too much yellow in your skin. Eyeliner should be dark brown or black.
Medium Skin & Dark-Medium Hair
Blush in pink, wine or plum with eyes in a pale shade of gray, blue, purple or pink. Use black or gray eye liner and lips in pink, plum, reds or mauves. If skin has a golden cast to it, you may look better in the warm colors in medium to rich tones. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Light Brown Skin & Dark to Medium-Light Hair
Blush in rose, orangey peach or gold bronzes with eyes in brown shimmer or greens, blues or purple. Lips can be earth tones with gold specks, light brown, caramel, brick red or coral. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Dark Skin & Dark Hair
Blush in bright or deep reddish shades like rose, brick red, rust, watermelon, burgundy or mauves. Eyes should be one shade lighter than your skin tone with gold or silver specs depending on if you are a warm or cool tone. Brow bones should have an even lighter highlight, and use dark eye liner. Eyeliner should be black. Lips can be deep plum, red, wine or berry, or bright red, orange or fuchsia for evening. Darker skin with paler brown makeup colors will look ashy and washed out.

Eye Placement and Tips

Close Set Eyes
Generally female models are chosen because they have wide set eyes which appears more feminine (Katie Holmes is a very good example of someone with wide set eyes). Having close set eyes makes your features look crowded in the center of your face and makes the rest of your face look large. It’s ok for men to have close set or small eyes since making the face look larger appears more masculine. If you think that your eyes are close set, do not wear glasses with large frames as this will make your eyes seem even closer. Utilize eye makeup techniques concentrating on the outer half of eyes and contouring at the temple area to help draw eyes apart if your eyes are close set. And only pluck stray hairs in between brows to make your brows closer together which makes eyes appear set wider apart as well.

Professional Photography Makeup Contouring

Contour Makeup Techniques (Lowlights and Highlights)
A good alternative for makeup bronzers is to use it for contour shaping of the face which is what many makeup artists use to contour for professional photography makeup. Contours are used to shape the face and to play up or down facial features. For professional photography makeup, the heavy, oil based pancake makeup covers all flaws and discolorations, but it also tends to make the face appear flat and wide, particularly with the bright lights professional photographers use (and on fashion runways and stage); it washes out your features and lightens up all shadows, so applying contours (lowlights and/or highlights) is essential to achieve depth and dimension to your face and facial feature correction can be done at the same time. You can utilize the same techniques for everyday makeup or for special events but on a lesser scale so it doesn’t look artificial. Contours should be very carefully blended so they are not obvious. You don’t want to look like you have a racing stripe under your cheekbones. Use gentle zigzag or circular motions to blend the edges well so the edges fade into your foundation. You can play with light and dark shadows to minimize or emphasize features and alter the shape of your face. Remember the principal that dark shades make objects recede or look smaller, and light shades make objects appear larger or come forward. Just don't overdue it. To make sure the shadows look right, test a technique, then take a digital photo of yourself to check the results since it can be hard to determine in a mirror.

Contour Lowlights (darker shades):
Use bronzer one to two shades darker than your foundation. Contours can be used to shape the cheek bones, forehead, nose, chin, as well as creating a more exotic look for eyes.
Cheek bones:
To enhance cheek bones and make them more prominent and full, apply bronzer just under the cheekbones (and a highlighter to the top of cheekbones if desired for better results). Brushing bronzer from the hairline near the area where the ear attaches at the top, the contour should follow the line of your cheek bones, just under the bone (if you sucked your cheeks in, it would be the hollow area), and fade to nothing approximately two finger widths away from the corner of your mouth. Be careful not to get contour shadows on the jaw line and avoid angling the shadow downward toward your chin which results in a frowning look to the face. Blush should be applied as normal on the apples of the cheek starting in the center of the fattest part and blended back and up into contours so the two blend slightly. Don't over do it and take care not to get blush close to your eyes or nose which will result in a sunburned look. The blush color should be a light color and add just a healthy glow to your cheeks. If your face is very wide and full or cheekbones too prominent, you can play with shadows to downplay the width by lightly dusting the sides of your face with bronzer, concentrating the most color in the middle and fading upward and downward, then apply a bit deeper shade of blush than your skin would normally blush to, placed just slightly more to the outside of the apple, blended up and out toward temples. When applying shadows to cheekbones or sides of your face, use care not to pull the shadow over your jawbone which will make your jaw look like it disappears into your neck and lose jawline definition. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see girls do in my makeup classes. And be sure to pull color into your hairline so you won't have a pale strip that stands out. Also see tips under Hair catagories for styles that help alter or camoflage facial shapes.
Nose:
To slim a wide nose, apply contour shadows on each side of your nose, blending carefully. Adding a thin line of highlighter down the center of your nose will slim it even more. Applying a slight shadow directly over the sides of just your nostrils will diminish the size of them. Just a touch of color is all that's needed to make a difference. When I show this trick to girls in my classes, they are amazed at the difference when we compare the side with the slight shadow and the one without. Placing a spot of bronzer to the center of the nose or bridge will help disguise a prominent bump. Place a little shadow just under the tip of the nose to shorten a long nose.
Forehead:
If you have a wide forehead, apply a light bronzer to each temple and blend well up and into the hairline. This will create a shadow effect causing the head to look more rounded and make your forehead appear narrower. If your forehead is high, place the shadow at the top of forehead near the hairline (and into the hairline) and blend well downward. For a large forehead (wide and high) place the shadow in a ‘C’ shape starting at the center of the forehead at hairline and sweeping across and downward along hairline into temple area. If you have sharp angles to your forehead (as with square or diamond shape faces), soften the angular areas by applying shadows on them into the hairline. For heart shape faces with large foreheads, dust bronzer all along the hairline, fading as you get to the temples.
Chin:
To shorten a long chin, place bronzer on the tip of chin to shorten it or round out a pointy chin. For a broad chin, minimize it's width by placing a touch of shadow to either side of the center point of chin. To minimize a double chin, lightly apply bronzer just under the jaw line and blend it down, fading towards your neck. If you just have a little extra fat under your chin, lightly dusting bronzer on the fatty part will help disguise it.
Eyes:
Bronzer applied at the outer corner of the eye going upward toward the temple will give the eyes a more exotic, cat eye look. This should appear as an extension of your eye shadow for the correct application with the two blended together carefully.

Contour Highlights (lighter shades):
Highlights are a shade or two lighter than your foundation that can be used to either correct facial features or add radiance to your complexion. Using a highlighter over your foundation high on your cheek bones will give a dewy, youthful, glowing effect to your face and can create fuller, more prominent cheek bones. Dot the highlighter along the highest part of your cheekbones, beginning about the center of your eyes and up and out toward hairline, blending carefully with a patting or stippling motion. Highlights are best to use instead of lowlights if you have a very long or narrow face and want to widen it. Placing the cheek bone highlights more horizontal will help widen your face and you can apply a bit of highlight along a weak or narrow jawline to help widen or define it. Contour brow bones or eyelids to make them look radiant and stand out. Highlighter placed in a V shape between your brows and blended well can also create a radiant glow to your face and help a small forehead look larger. To utilize highlights for other facial corrections: putting a strip of highlight down the bridge of the nose will make a small nose look larger or longer. To make a small chin appear larger, apply highlighter to the center of the chin, directly under the center of the lip. Pearly highlighter can be placed in your décolleté as well for luminescence. You can add a drop of it to your normal foundation to brighten up your makeup or select areas to highlight. For pearl or luminescent highlighters, choose one with gold (for warm skin tones) or pink (for cool skin tones) and it should be lighter than your foundation by only one or two shades. Avoid using white tones to highlight since it can look severe, and on darker skin it will appear ashy. Also note that when correcting facial features with these techniques, you don't want to make too many corrections to all areas for everyday makeup. It may look ok for the stage but will look clownish up close. Select the feature you most want to play up or down and concentrate on that area instead of all over your face.

Professional Photography Makeup Foundation and Basics
For foundation, the industry favorite is the tried and true "Pancake" oil based makeup since it is heavy and covers everything depending on how thick you apply it. I instruct the girls to apply heavier in the center of your face where blotchiness and redness is most prominent and 'sweeping' the remainder toward the hairline and under jaw. You want to make sure all traces of redness, blotches, blemishes, undereye circles, etc. are erased. I prefer the 'stippling' method of applying pancake makeup with a sponge for best coverage and finish. Putting a thin layer over eyelids helps remove any darkness or redness so eyeshadow goes on true to color, really opens eyes and assists in blending makeup. The heavier the foundation is applied, the more powder it will hold and should be powdered well (with translucent powder so as not to change your foundation shade). Eyelids especially need extra powdering so they don't crease up under hot lighting. After powdering your foundation, you would then want to apply all your contours needed as described above and then put on blush which goes on the apples of cheeks and blended back into cheek contours. See the catagory on "Makeup Tips" for proper placement of blush and color choices as well as eye makeup tips. You can then apply whatever eye makeup look desired but keep in mind that with professional photography, stage, runway and TV, the lighting is very strong so you have to compensate by applying makeup heavier, darker and define your features more. Lips should always be lined so your lip line does not disappear in the bright lighting. It takes a little practice and experimenting to determine just how much more makeup you should wear with extra lighting. If you are interested in commercial work, television use to always use the traditional pancake makeup, but with the creation of High Definition TV and the amount of detail it shows, pancake makeup will be too obvious now and I would expect TV to move to airbrushing stage makeup for a more perfect finish. That doesn't mean you should go out and purchase an airbrush machine for your makeup-they are very expensive, most TV stations will probably have one on hand for doing makeup.

Wrinkle Treatment/Prevention

Help Eliminate Wrinkles Overnight and Early Prevention
When you wake up and look in the mirror, do you see any ‘sleep lines or creases’ that develop overnight from your face compressing against the pillow? Those lines you see will eventually end up as permanent deep lines in your face. Sleeping on your back will keep your pillow from smushing your facial skin that causes these lines. A trick you can use if you can’t sleep on your back, or even if your face goes into frowning mode while sleeping: use paper medical tape (the type that is thin and softer) and apply to your forehead lines and around your eyes before going to bed, carefully peel off in the morning while holding skin taut so as not to stretch it. There is also a special pillow you can buy that is "C or D" shape and cradles your head while your face is not touching the pillow. You can substitute a similar pillow-the ones sold for travel that are "C" shaped used around your neck and just use as a regular pillow instead. Preventing sleep creases will also help you get going faster in the morning when you don't have time to wait for the creases to disappear. Check here for a Contoured Pillow or here for a Travel Pillow

Frowning and grimacing will create lines and wrinkles too that deepen over time and are hard to treat. Whenever you are alone, putting a piece of Scotch tape over the area where you frown or grimace will remind you to stop, such as between your brows, forehead or crows feet area around eyes. Don’t forget to wear sunglasses whenever outside so you don’t squint. Drinking from a straw constantly (or smoking) will give you the vertical lines around your lips. If you must use a straw, just close lips around it without puckering up.

Keep skin moisturized all the time, especially aging skin that produces much less oil on it's own, so wrinkles are less noticable and help prevent lines from forming. While your skin is still moist from washing, applying a rich skin cream to help trap the moisture in your skin and keep it in all night. The best ever selling face cream used by women all over the world for decades is Nivea Cream It's very budget priced and I know I can find it in any country I travel to (my personal recommendation is the heavier creme in the round blue tub-it's a wonderful emollient for those of us over 50 and very basic but really excellent). My mother used it almost all her life, she's 80 and looks fabulous! And it feels wonderful on dry, itchy skin since it's a much thicker cream-it has a consistency of creamy butter. If you want to be budget minded and save money, buy the Budget Size Nivea Cream I sometimes like to tailor it to my owns needs by mixing in some essential oils that suit my skin type such as carrot seed oil, lavender or chamomile. You can find a variety essential oils, I particularly like Carrot Seed Oil because it's naturally antiaging, another form of vitamin A which is what Retin A and Retinoids are made from but you don't need a perscription for the natural oil-a few drops go a long way and ends up very cost effective. For information on the properties for various essential oils, my book Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm goes in depth for what you should use for different skin problems. Keep me bookmarked as I will be adding information here in the future on different oils.

For those with acne prone skin, avoid the heavy creams since they can clog pores, but you probably already have plenty of oils to lubricate skin, so a light, oil free moisturizer is all you need. Nivea has an extensive line of products that I would highly recommend for cleansing, sunscreens, products for men, antiaging creams, etc.; you may want to take a look at their line: Nivea Product Line

More Uses for Preparation H...

Sagging Skin, Facial Lines, Undereye Bags and Hemorrhoid Cream
A quick, temporary fix for a big night out if you have forehead frown lines, loose upper arm skin, etc., areas you want to tighten up, apply Preparation H hemorrhoid cream which makes skin look taut and smooth, including areas with cellulite. Supermodels use this quick fix for all kinds of areas they want to depuff or tighten up. The one everyone’s heard of is applying it to undereye bags to eliminate puffiness. This is not a recent vogue technique, it's been around for decades. See other articles here under the catagory 'Preparation H Hemorrhoid Cream'. And for those wanting to know if Preparation H will reduce their belly fat or flatten their stomach... sorry, it won't do that much! The ingredient in hemorrhoid cream draws excess fluid out and tightens up top layers of skin but it won't affect the fat under your skin. Your only options for reducing your belly is diet and exercise-or liposuction which is expensive, painful and invasive.

For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm

Bruises

Treating & Disguising Bruises
Place a banana peel skin over your bruise and hold it or tape it in place for about a half an hour. There is a chemical in the skin of the peel that helps draw out the bruise. Also rub some cream containing vitamin K into the bruise to help it disappear faster. Vitamin K also helps treat the blue or purple under eye circles that are caused by leaking blood under the thin skin around eyes or the color of your capillaries showing through. Using a yellow color makeup concealer under foundation will also neutralize the blue or purple color. If the color tends to be more red, use green concealer to neutralize the color. Use a small amount over the bruise blended well, then cover with foundation or concealer. If you can't get rid of the bruise fast enough for a big event, try covering it with a special body makeup, the most popular among models is DermaBlend. You can find it usually in pharmacies, larger department stores and they have a web site as well. Dermablend is good for covering up any skin discolorations such as birthmarks, rosacea, scars, bruises, etc since it is very opaque but doesn't look artificial-you name it, it will cover it and it's waterproof so you can even wear it to the pool. DermaBlend has been a staple for the professional modeling and acting world for a very long time and continues to be a leader in coverage for any type of skin problem. Keep a jar on hand in your skin tone so you have it when the need arises. To see a whole line of what DermaBlend has to offer and also view comments from buyers for each product: DermaBlend

Plump Lips

Full, Plump Lips-All the Rage...
Lip ‘Plumpers’ contain essential oils like ginger, cinnamon, menthol, wintergreen in a jojoba oil base which increases blood circulation to the lips, making blood rush to the surface, causing flushing and slightly swelling lips. Most all cosmetic companies use similar ingredients in their “lip plumping” products. Basically, these oils are an irritant which is why they make your lips swell. It’s the same as eating hot peppers or salsa, getting the oils from it on your lips-you’ll notice your lips getting plumper and redder, a similar feeling to getting a 'fat lip'. The results are only temporary though so don't believe any advertisements claiming to plump your lips permanently just by applying a product. Only injections by a physician can accomplish that and even those last only so long (several months and then it disappears). Using these oils too often on lips can result in dry, irritated lips. A humectant like glycerin added to the lip product is also important to draw moisture into lips to keep them moist and plump. But anything that adds moisture to lips is helpful. Dry lips will be thinner and show more lines. To lock in moisture, keeping lips naturally plump and fuller (and more youthful looking), hold a warm, steamy wet cloth over lips until it cools down, swipe on a good moisturizer, then seal it all in with a waxy lip balm, petroleum jelly or lipstick. You can make your own lip plumper by adding a couple drops of those essential oils into your pot of lip gloss. Or try rubbing lips with wasabi or hot pepper paste and then apply your lip gloss spiked with some of the essential oils. Brushing lips with a toothbrush to remove old skin will also help increase the 'plump' power. Just don’t overdo it or you could end up drying and chapping your lips-which cancels out making them plump!
For much more information on makeup, acne, skin and hair care, natural products and more: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm