How to Choose Makeup Colors for Your Season

Matching up Your Complexion and Hair Color to Makeup
Be sure to match colors to your ‘Season’ (another topic on that to come under ‘Fashion” category). A majority of people are a cool tone, either summer or winter. For cool toned skin: choose cool colors such as pink, rose, burgundy, wine, plum, taupe, silver, gray, charcoal, blue and cool greens, and reds with a blue undertone. Few people are the warm tones of spring or autumn. Natural redheads are generally autumn. For warm tones: choose terra cotta, brick, peach, coral, orange, bronze, gold, caramel, chocolate brown and warm greens and reds. Warm reds have more orange tints in them while cool reds have more violet or blue. Warm greens have more yellow while cool greens have more blue. Violet eye makeup in smokey shades will look good almost universally on all skin tones. Bright, intense blues never look good on anyone so don't even buy it.
Fair Skin & Light Hair
Choose a pale blush, softer eyeshadow and liner colors since too much color will over power your fair coloring. Liner should be soft brown or charcoal, avoid really dark liner. Lips can go lighter or bold depending on whether you are more dressed down or up but for bold colors, choose more of a sheer lipstick or a gloss. Most everyone with very fair skin and hair are cool tone ‘Summer Season’ so you will probably look best in the cool colors.
Fair Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Medium shade blush with medium shades on eyes and lips as well. You want to be somewhere in the middle so you don’t over power the light or the dark. Liner should be medium brown or charcoal. Most dark haired girls with fair skin are ‘Winter Season’ and you’ll probably look best in cool colors. If your eyes are dark, you can get away with some darker shades around your eyes.
Olive Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Brighter blushes or a bronzer and eyes in darker browns or golds. You can also use bright colors and dark liner. Lips can be brick, wine, soft caramel or chocolate brown. Your coloring can handle rich tones. Stay away from bright orangy and pinky shades which will bring out too much yellow in your skin. Eyeliner should be dark brown or black.
Medium Skin & Dark-Medium Hair
Blush in pink, wine or plum with eyes in a pale shade of gray, blue, purple or pink. Use black or gray eye liner and lips in pink, plum, reds or mauves. If skin has a golden cast to it, you may look better in the warm colors in medium to rich tones. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Light Brown Skin & Dark to Medium-Light Hair
Blush in rose, orangey peach or gold bronzes with eyes in brown shimmer or greens, blues or purple. Lips can be earth tones with gold specks, light brown, caramel, brick red or coral. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Dark Skin & Dark Hair
Blush in bright or deep reddish shades like rose, brick red, rust, watermelon, burgundy or mauves. Eyes should be one shade lighter than your skin tone with gold or silver specs depending on if you are a warm or cool tone. Brow bones should have an even lighter highlight, and use dark eye liner. Eyeliner should be black. Lips can be deep plum, red, wine or berry, or bright red, orange or fuchsia for evening. Darker skin with paler brown makeup colors will look ashy and washed out.

All About Eye Liners and Tips

Eyeliner Types
Eye liners come in pencil, liquid or powder. Pencils liners can be found in an assortment of sizes and colors. The fatter the pencil, the more smudged look you'll get, the smaller and harder the pencil, the more precise a line you’ll get. Pencils are versatile since you can use them for sharper, defined lines or create a smudged, smoky look and any combination in between. Liquid liners are a bit tricky to apply, but once you master a perfect line, you will probably love the look. Liquid liners will give a more dramatic, defined look. Powders go on softer but when mixed with a liquid, can go on darker. They must be used with a good pointed brush to apply a thin line.

Liner Application
Top Lids
Apply liner as close to lashes as possible-you don’t want to see any skin color between your lashes and liner. For pencils and powders you can scrub the color right into your lashes so you don’t see the skin tone-particularly useful for very fair complexions with sparse lashes. Smudging pencil liner will help avoid a harsh look. To make eyes look longer or wide-set, start mid-lid and extend liner just past the end of eye, tapering upward.
Bottom Lids
Apply pencil or powder liner sparingly as close to lashes as possible then smudge to avoid a harsh look and help balance the eye shape. To make eyes look longer or wide-set, start mid-lid and extend liner just past the end of eye, blending upward, or just add a small smudge under eyes at the outer corner and smudge upward. For most people, lining the entire bottom lid looks very unnatural, heavy, throws the shape of eyes off balance and makes eyes look smaller so stick with lining no more than half way in on the bottom. Liquid liner doesn’t usually look good on bottom lids since it can look too harsh and can be difficult to apply, but if you do want to try it, hold outer corner of lid taut and apply using quick short strokes if you have trouble making an even line in one thin stroke because of lashes in the way.

Eye Lining Tips
-The thicker the brush for liquid eyeliner, the thicker the line will be and the harder it is to manage a perfect line. Wipe excess liquid liner off on the rim of the tube when you pull the brush out. If the skin on your lid tends to crinkle, the line will not turn out straight.
-To help you get a fine straight line, hold eye lid taut at the outer corner of eye and apply in one long, smooth stroke starting at the inner corner. Always apply liquid liner after shadow application and allow to dry before applying mascara.
-Using oily or slick pencils to line the lower lashes will smear and smudge. Most pencil liners wear off easier, so set it to last longer and prevent smudging by softly brushing some powder shadow over it in black, brown or charcoal.
-Don’t use eyeshadow as eyeliner unless you use a brush with a small, precise, fine-tipped point. And mixing the shadow with water or Visine before applying will give you a better line and a good substitute if you don’t have any liner.
-Don’t use really bright colored pencils or eyeshadows to line the eye. It’s distracting and automatically looks like too much makeup. All you see is the makeup and not your eyes. Also don’t make liner the most obvious part of your overall makeup.
-Never circle the eye with dark or bright color. Both are too obvious and create an eyeglass-style circle around the eye.
-Don’t line the inside rim of the lids, between the lash and the eye itself unless you have really large eyes. It makes eyes look smaller, it’s messy and can be unhealthy for the cornea.
-Over-blending and spilling your eyeliner onto the skin under the lower lashes will make dark under eye circles look worse. Go easy with liner on top lids as well since it will bring attention the dark circles.-Never apply thick or heavy eyeliner to small or close-set eyes or eyes with small eyelids.
-To help correct droopy eyes (your eye shape droops downward at the outer corners), line upper lids starting at the middle of the lid in a very thin line and getting thicker at the outer corners and wing it upward and outward to visually lift eyes and don’t line bottom lids.
-Extend liner past the outer corner of the eyes and upward for a cat eye look, but be careful not to extend too far or you may look like an Egyptian Pharaoh.
-Soften the tip of a freshly sharpened pencil by gently rolling it across the back of your hand or between your fingers. You can also bring a dull, flattened pencil to more of a point without sharpening it by gently pinching and rolling the tip between your thumb and forefinger. You can also salvage a tip broken off a pencil by placing it back onto the pencil, gently pinch, push back toward pencil and roll between fingers to meld them together.

See other categories for “Makeup Tips” and “Eyes” for more ideas and for thousands more tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm

Makeup Tools on a Budget

From Arts and Craft Stores
Visit your local arts and crafts supply store for lots of great tools to use for makeup. Artist palettes work well for getting creative with mixing lip and eye colors. Particularly if you have a graveyard of colors you don’t like and you want to mix them together to tone them down or create new shades of your own. Just cut a little tip of the lipstick off and place on a palette to mix with other colors to create new colors, with foundation to tone colors down, or eye shadows to create completely new creative colors. Do the same with eye shadows-just place some on the palette and mix to your heart’s desire with any other makeup medium you can come up with. For an even cheaper way to mix colors together, use what I use for my paintings to mix colors-an empty Styrofoam egg carton. It gives you a dozen pockets for mixing and it’s disposable-and closable to save for later.

Paint and tool boxes make great makeup boxes with lots of compartments to store any kind of item. And artist brushes come in hundreds of shapes and sizes to choose from. Instead of paying a high price for good makeup brushes, look for high quality artist brushes on sale (Michaels Arts and Crafts Supply often has 50% off sales for brushes) and stock up on different kinds-many are shaped very much like makeup brushes. The natural bristles work best since acrylic or nylon brushes don’t hold most makeup well. Boar or camel’s hair brushes work best. Don’t forget to get a few stiff, pointy brushes for lining lips and eyes or feathering brows in. If you don’t like the long handle, simply saw some of it off and sand the end a bit.

Tired of getting hairspray on your face or shoulders? Don't spend a lot of money on a specialty hairspray shield, just use a sheet of clear plastic. You can see through it so you can view what you're spraying. Reuse the plastic from packages you would throw away and cut them to size, use them several times, then toss. You can probably find lots of items you could use for it when you look around the house.
Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm

Eye Shapes, Problems and Makeup Application

Eye Shadow Application and Tips for Eye Shapes and Problems
To prevent eye makeup from coming off, running or smudging by the end of the day: lightly moisturize eye area with an oil free lotion, apply foundation and then loose powder (even if you don’t like wearing foundation it helps to wear it at least on your eyes). It creates a base for the eye makeup to adhere to and makes blending colors easier. You can substitute makeup primer for the foundation which is applied in a light film and also creates smoother skin (be sure your moisturizer is oil free and soaks in about 10 minutes before applying primer since it won’t adhere to oily surfaces). Use powder shadow instead of creams or gels which tend to melt and fade faster. Avoid using your fingers to apply eye makeup because your fingers have oils that can make colors run. Wearing makeup just on tops of eyes will help avoid smudges and dark circles under eyes.

If you wear glasses, make sure eye makeup is well blended and neat because your glasses will magnify mistakes and keep eye liner thinner since the line will appear bolder through your glasses.

For a fast, easy way to add instant glamour to eyes, dab a bit of lip gloss on lid right above top lashes and blend. Bronze shimmer gloss will work for most complexions.

Crepey or Aging Wrinkled Eyelids
Before applying eye makeup, you might want to moisturize the eye area with a gel that helps tighten the skin up and helps prevent smudging that happens with oils or creams. Avoid applying foundation to eyelids which will collect in the creases and accentuate the crepiness, but do press on some face powder to lids before applying color for a smoother look. Instead of foundation, you could use a makeup primer which acts like a foundation in coverage but will smooth out skin when applied in a thin film. Avoid shimmery eye shadows which reflect light and draw attention to lids. If using cream shadows, be sure it’s not too greasy or too dry and choose colors that are soft matte tones in light to medium colors of nude, taupe, brown, soft grey or lavender so as not to draw too much attention. Stay away from very dark liners.

Under Eye Dark Circles
Avoid liner and eye shadow shades with blue or blue undertones or any dark shades anywhere under eyes. You might want to apply makeup only to upper lids so it draws attention away from the circles and is less likely to smudge under eyes and make circles darker. Always clean up any speckles of dark eye shadow that falls under your eyes. Also see other categories for tips on under eye circles such as “Eyes”, “Aging Skin” and “Revive Eyes and Face”.

Make Eye Color Pop
Your eye color will look more intense if you understate your lips and cheeks and play up your eyes with complimentary colors:
Brown eyes-wear green or gold
Blue eyes-wear orange or peach
Green eyes-wear purple or copper
Hazel eyes-wear blue or olive

Eye Shapes and Correct Makeup Application

Almond-shaped Eyes
Almond shapes are usually larger or longer with a bit of an upturn at the outer corners. Avoid too much dark shadow and liner at the same time and only line the outer two thirds of eyes. Apply lighter shade from lash to brow with medium shade on lid. Then place dark shadow on outer third of lid. Applying a dot of shimmery shadow on the outer half of brow bone is also a nice look. Apply generous coats of mascara and comb well to separate.

Close-set Eyes
Close-set eyes are often due to a slender nose and makes your face look smaller, or all your features crowded in the center of your face. To create the illusion of width between eyes, apply color wide apart. Start shadow well away from eye's inner corner blending up and out with the more intense shade at outer limits. Line only the outer half of the eye and then apply light shadow to inner corners. Concentrate mascara on outer lashes as well. Another trick you can use to spread eyes apart is to put a dot of very light eye shadow at the inner corner of eyes next to nose and blend inward toward upper and lower lids. This will work even if you aren’t wearing any other eye shadow colors.

Deep-set or Hooded Eyes
These eyes don’t have a visible crease, such as Asian eyes. Go easy with eye makeup and avoid dark shades on the lids but line upper lash line with a dark shade, with liner on the bottom lids optional and smudge to soften. To make eyes pop, use a light shimmery shadow on brow bones and a slightly darker shadow on lids to just above the crease and apply plenty of mascara. To add a little drama, you can create a bit of an upturn to liner at the outer corners and blend some medium color shadow along eyelids and follow the upturn, blending upward toward brows. Curling lashes also helps eyes pop.

Round Eyes
To make them appear more almond-shaped, use lighter shadow all over top lid, darker in entire crease. Line top and bottom lid, extend liner out and up at end. Mascara for top lashes only, with more on outer half.

Wide-set Eyes
Apply a light to medium shade from lash to brow. Place darker shadow shade near eye's inner corners, blending across lid and feathering out lightly towards temples. Focus liner and mascara on inner corners to help pull the look of eyes together.

Small Eyes
Make eyes look larger and add sparkle by using a light colored shimmery pencil or shadow (for very fair skin use white and for dark skin use gold, others can use shimmery pink or silver for cool complexions and shimmery gold or yellow for warm complexions). Apply it in a small ‘V’ at inner corner of eyes with one side of the V going along top eyelid and other side of V along the bottom lid. Small eyes typically have little or no lids showing so avoid dark colors that make eyes look smaller and lids disappear. Never line all the way around small eyes and keep lines thinner, lining just the outer third of eyes, top and bottom, then soften the line with a sponge or cotton swab. Use lighter shades in both liner and shadow such as pale gray, soft brown, taupe, smokey lavender or other subtle color. Lining the lower inner lid area with light taupe or bluish white pencil will make eyes look bigger. Pale shimmery shadows will look good on lids up to the crease and a little added at the inner corners of eyes and a little on the bottom lid which will make eyes stand out. Use an eyelash curler to help open up eyes and make them appear larger as well.

Eyes with little or no lids showing
Apply a silvery green, violet or blue shadow beginning near lashes and fading up to the crease to brighten eyes and add pizzazz. Eye liner should be very thin or none at all. If you do use liner concentrate the line at the outer corner of the eye to make eyes appear larger and lightly line under eyes with a soft line using eye shadow and a cotton swab.

Large Eyes
Large eyes generally have a lot of eyelid showing, and often the most prominent facial feature, so you don’t need very much makeup to accentuate them. To keep eyes from overpowering the face, keep eye makeup subtle with less shading or contrast. Avoid shimmery or bright colors and place shadow in the center of the lid, blending outward, a little inward and up toward crease. Don’t use several different colors, use just one color of shadow and liner. Large eyes can handle lining all the way around eyes or heavy liner. Applying liner to the inner rim of bottom lids will make eyes appear smaller. Mascara should be applied just on top lashes since mascara on the bottom lashes can look too doll-like.

Mascara Application and Tips

All About Mascara
-If you want to wear just one item of makeup, it should be mascara.
-Twirl the mascara brush in the tube, don’t pump-this pushes air into the tube drying it out faster and could introduce bacteria.
-Remove excess on the brush by rubbing it against the bottle opening or blot on a tissue.
-You can unclump mascara by lightly misting the brush, wait 10 seconds then apply. It will dilute it just enough to leave color without lumps, but don’t use on waterproof mascara.
-For best application of mascara to top lashes, open your eyes wide while lifting your eye brows, place the brush as close to the roots of your lashes as possible and wiggle or saw back and forth before brushing out to get more product applied to every lash. Lightly brush the tip back and forth across lower lashes.
-Apply 2-3 coats of mascara, letting each coat dry in between application for longer, thicker lashes.
-Applying too much mascara will probably cause flaking or smearing under your eyes and a hard, spiky appearance. It does not look better to wear excessive mascara, it just looks gunky and overdone and could cause your lashes to break or fall out.
-Clean up mascara mistakes after the mascara dries so it won’t smear. It should flake off easily with a swab or sponge.
-Using mascara or liner on bottom lashes can make under eye circles worse so skip the bottom if you are dark under your eyes.
-If you’re over 30 or have fair skin and hair, avoid black mascara which can look too harsh. Go with dark brown instead.
-Save the colored mascaras, such as purple, blue or green for special fun events and not for the office where it looks unprofessional. But if you want to use colored mascara, maroon color will make blue or green eyes really pop. Blue mascara will help make the whites of your eyes whiter.
-Avoid using waterproof mascara on a regular basis since it’s difficult to remove without pulling lashes out and stretching delicate skin around the eyes that causes bags over time. Even waterproof mascaras can smudge when in contact with oils or creams so be sure to use light, oil free creams or gel moisturizers that contain sunscreen and nutrients. Gels will also help tighten skin around your eyes. Many of the water soluble mascaras will work just as well unless you will be swimming or shedding tears.
-If using an eye lash curler, use before applying mascara and make sure it has a rubber edge to protect against pulling out hairs. Curling can make lashes more noticeable and open up your eyes but can look strange if they are bent in an unnatural angle so don’t overdo it. Gently squeeze evenly and hold for a few seconds and continuing the length of your lashes from roots to ends. You can use the curler after just one coat of mascara if you’re very careful and it will help hold the curl in your lashes better.
-Clean out a used up mascara tube and use it to fill with petroleum jelly and use in place of mascara to define and lengthen lashes if you are sensitive to makeup. Or keep the old brush to use as a brow tamer or separate lashes that clump together.
-There are many choices of mascara out there: thickening, lengthening, curling or just color tint, clear and waterproof or a combination. You need to decide what will work best for your lash type and lifestyle.
-You don’t need to spend a lot of money on mascara. Some cheaper ones work just as well and sometimes better than expensive ones. When looking for one you like, begin with cheaper brands and work your way up until you find the perfect choice without wasting lots of money. Cover Girl Great Lash is still one of the top selling mascaras and has been for decades-and it’s extremely reasonable.

Best Way to Treat Acne and Blackheads

Basic and Best Acne Treatment
The basic (and still recommended) way to treat acne is with a gentle cleanser (most Dermatologists recommend liquid Cetaphyl Cleanser which is great for sensitive skin and contains no detergent to irritate) at least twice a day, applying a 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide product twice daily, along with a light, oil free moisturizer. The twice daily Benzoyl Peroxide treatment should be applied about 12 hours apart and liberally, starting out with approximately a dime size amount and increasing the amount as skin tolerates. A very thin layer will probably do nothing for you and probably the reason many people give up on it is too scanty application or not often enough. Some people’s skin do not tolerate Benzoyl Peroxide very well so if you have sensitive skin, start even slower until you know how your skin will react. Include application of a BHA-Beta Hydroxy Acid .5% cream (Salicylic Acid) along with the Benzoyl Peroxide for better success. The BHA helps rid skin of top layers of dead cells that can collect in pores and when mixed with oil from your skin and bacteria, the result is an eruption of a blemish. The Benzoyl Peroxide helps clear up the bacteria causing havoc. The products should be pH correct (between 3 & 4) and not include any irritants or fragrances like mint or alcohol or anything else you know you are sensitive to). This routine is generally what a doctor would start you with before working up to other treatments, but you can do it without the Dr’s office fees since they are all products available over the counter without a prescription. It works for many people but just like other treatments for acne, it might not work for everyone. Even Accutane, with its touted success, does not always work even after repeated treatments and is very pricey. This basic routine is the most cost effective route to take to begin treating your acne before taking expensive, drastic measures. When using any product containing Benzoyl Peroxide, keep in mind that it can stain and bleach fabric as well as hair. Be sure to sleep with a towel to protect your pillow and change the towel every couple days to prevent bacteria from growing and causing more acne problems. Avoid getting it on your eyebrows or hairline since it will bleach hair.

Basic and Best Blackhead Treatment
If you have acne along with the blackheads, follow the treatment described above making sure you are using the Salicylic Acid .5% (BHA-Beta Hydroxy Acid) cream which helps improve the pore lining functions to keep them clear and slough off the dead skin cells. Don't go any stronger than .5% since it could cause other problems. Again, be sure the product is pH correct (between 3 & 4) which helps it penetrate the follicle lining of the pore to dislodge blackheads and allow the oil to flow freely to the surface of the skin. Benzoyl Peroxide works for the bacteria that causes acne but has no effect on the blackheads since they aren’t caused by bacteria. To effectively remove the blackheads, squeezing is the best remedy and is exactly what you pay a facialist to do. Blackheads are not ‘dirt’ and you cannot scrub them away since they begin well under the surface of the skin. Just take care to gently squeeze out blackheads using a soft cloth so you don’t damage the skin and create scarring. The removal works more efficient if you first steam your face to soften skin and open the pores. After removing the blackheads, apply a toner or alcohol free astringent to help shrink the pores. Some natural liquids that are oil reducing by nature and help close up the open pores: Vodka, lemon juice, witch hazel and buttermilk. Applying aloe vera gel is a great alternative too since it’s astringent, very healing and soothing to skin. You can also help shrink the open pores by brushing on raw egg white to the skin and letting it dry then lightly rinsing. Never apply rubbing alcohol to shrink pores which is much too harsh and can make problems worse. See the other topics under ‘Acne’ for further information and tips.
For much more information on acne, skin care, natural products and more: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm