The Basics About Makeup

Makeup Tips and Tidbits

Whatever your best facial feature is-lips, cheeks or eyes-play up that feature and downplay the others. Never use heavy makeup on more than one feature at a time or they will fight and look clownish. Another advantage of playing up one feature is you can draw attention away from a feature you don’t like such a less than perfect nose by playing up eyes or lips and use little to no blush which would bring attention to the nose. If you have nice full lips but small eyes, use a rich color on lips and go light on eye makeup to keep from making small eyes look even smaller and bring all the attention to your nice lips. If you have great eyes but lips are less than perfect, use a neutral shade on lips and maximize your eyes for attention. If your cheeks are shaped perfectly, you can make them rosy and highlighted with a shimmer, downplaying eyes and lips for a natural, healthy look.

The average time it should take to apply makeup should be 7 minutes or less. If you take more time than that, you’re probably overdoing it for everyday wear. If you apply your foundation right and get a radiant finish, essentially you can just add mascara and lipstick or gloss and look fabulous. If you apply a light layer of foundation to your eyelids to conceal any redness or discoloration, you often can go without any eye shadow at all. This is a great look for those who are very fair or have very small eyes and don’t look good with lots of eye makeup on. Just apply foundation and a couple good coats of mascara to brighten and define eyes.

All About Foundation

Choosing a Foundation
Foundation should always match your skin tone exactly. Yellow-based foundations work best on most skin types, because they neutralize any pink or red undertones and blotchiness from acne, and result in a clearer complexion. Avoid pink-based foundations, which often end up looking too pink or ruddy on the skin and make acne redness look worse. Most often, foundation with yellow undertones works best for most skins unless you already have a lot of yellow in your skin. In that case, you would look for a shade with no yellow but a more taupe/beige neutral shade to tone down the yellow in your skin so you won’t look sickly.

When choosing a new foundation or other makeup, take a picture of yourself in it to see if it matches your skin tone, hair and eyes-you’ll be able to tell better in a photo. It may be difficult to choose a base color with products that are sold over the counter at your local drug store. Ask the clerk if you can try it and step outside in day light with a mirror to check the color for correctness since fluorescent lights can drastically change the way it matches. Always test on your jaw line and allow foundation to dry. If you see a spot or the color, it's not right, it should be invisible. Why wear something you can't see? It’s meant to even out skin tone, remove blotchiness and create a fresh, healthy looking complexion (not a mask). Then, you factor in contouring, blush, concealer and powder. All these steps cover what you want to cover. Foundation is like priming a canvas. Don't try to darken your skin with the foundation step. That is where contouring and bronzers come in (for contour information, see “Professional Photography Makeup Contouring” under “Model Tips” category). For women with darker complexions who want to avoid ashiness, this occurs when the color is too pink or blue based, or if the foundation is too light.

Types of Foundation

Offers light to medium coverage. Available in moisturizing formulas with a satin finish for dry skin or oil-free versions with a matte finish for oily skin.
Offers light to medium coverage, slightly heavier than a liquid and great for dry skin. Avoid creams if you have oily or combination skin.
Foundation sticks can also double as concealers. The new gel or powder finish formulas are not as heavy or greasy as the older "pancake" type formulas.
Dual-finish compact formulas (liquid to powder or cream to powder):
Light coverage which is great for combination skin, but should be avoided by those with excessively dry skin since it can be drying, or those who need heavier coverage.
Tinted moisturizer:
Can be used under foundation or alone for minimal to no coverage. Almost like a liquid bronzer.
Mineral Makeup Powder:
These are powders that go on smooth and can be layered for more coverage. They are good for all skin types and problem skin as well.

Foundation Application
Applying foundation makeup can be done in many different ways. It all depends on what you’re comfortable with and what kind of coverage you want. You can use your pointer finger and tap a tiny amount on problem areas, blemishes, redness, discolorations and under eyes until it fades into skin for a natural look, covering just the areas needed without using too much. You can use a soft brush and swirl it on for a polished look. I personally teach girls to apply it with a synthetic makeup sponge and stipple like you’re stipple painting a wall, applying in the center of the face where most of the discoloration is and sweeping the remainder on the sponge outward toward hairline and under jaw line. Using a clean sponge each time will help prevent bacteria from contaminating your foundation which is important for those prone to breakouts. Your fingers also have oil in them and that will spread to your foundation if using your fingers and if you’re using oil free product you don’t want to introduce any oil to it. However you decide to apply it, never swipe or wipe it across your skin since that will just remove it and you’ll end up using more product. Tapping, stippling, blotting or swirling applications work best where you just spread the product around to even it out.

To help makeup last longer, use foundation sparingly and don’t use your fingers to apply since the oil on them makes product fade faster. Always use loose powder to set foundation. Never use pressed powder in a compact to set your makeup. The reason pressed powder stays solid in the compact is because they add oil to it so it sticks together and you can’t set makeup with oily powder. Save the compact to keep in your purse for touching up shine on your nose or dust a blemish during the day. If you find a foundation that matches your skin perfectly, use a true translucent powder that will not add any color, which would change your foundation color and give heavier coverage.

Makeup primers are used like lotions and applied over your moisturizer in a thin film but under your foundation. It helps your makeup last for hours and evens out bumps creating a smoother finish to skin. Makeup will go on easier and blend better if you use a primer underneath. Be sure to use an oil free moisturizer under primers since they don’t stick to oily surfaces and let moisturizer soak in about 10 minutes before applying primer. Foundation is the first step to beautiful make-up application. Spend a few extra dollars for a foundation that you can try on at the beauty counter at a good department or makeup store

All About Lip Color

Lipstick Application Basics
1. Apply a light coating of foundation or primer to smooth and soften lips. This step helps to fill in the lines and smoothes the surface of lips. Also helps lipstick to last longer. Dust with loose powder.
2. Use a lip liner that matches or is slightly darker than your lip shade (if you want to make lips appear to be larger.). Line lips starting at one corner of your upper lip tracing around your lip line to the other corner. Repeat for bottom lip. Do not go right to the corners. The top and bottom liners should not meet or you may get the "circle' look. It helps to form a half smile so lips are taut making it easier to line. Fill in lips using your lip liner to prevent a ring being left behind when your lipstick wears off. This step will also help lipstick stay longer. Smudge liner slightly or blot with a tissue.
3. Apply lip color with a lip brush to avoid smearing liner. Swipe the brush over the lipstick a few times. Starting at the center of lips, work the color outwards. Be sure to line color where lip liner ends at the corners of your mouth. Brush lips one more time with another coat of lip color. Repeat a third time if a more intense pout is what you desire. Blot excess off.
4. Optional, applying a lip gloss to give a nice shine to lips.

Lipstick Types
Matte Lipsticks:
Some are also categorized as “Long-Wearing”, which usually contains kaolin as the primary ingredient for staying power and give lipsticks a non shiny/greasy texture. They tend to be drying, but if you're looking for staying power, matte is a good option unless you are over 50 years old-a bad choice since they show lip lines and emphasize a crepey surface-go with a creamier based formula if you are older or have dry, flaky or wrinkled lips. Many Long-Wearing lipsticks claim to ‘last all day even through kissing’-these claims are a bit exaggerated…
Sheer Lipsticks:
The pigmentation of sheers is not very high and tend to be transparent. They can be more moisturizing then other types of lipsticks and wear off easy but leave a nice hint of color.
Cream or Moisturizing Lipsticks:
These contain conditioning ingredients such as shea butter. They tend to wear off easily due to moisturizing ingredients in them but if you have dry lips or aging lips, these are best.
Staining Lip Colors:
These often have dual uses for both lips and cheeks for staining. Some have good staying power depending on how much they stain. Apply lip gloss over stains for moister looking lips. Stains will give uneven color if applied to dry, peeling lips since the dead skin stains darker so be sure to exfoliate lips first before applying.
Gloss and High Gloss:
These will make your lips look fuller since they reflect a lot of light. They can be worn alone or over another lipstick.

Lipstick Color Choices
When choosing the correct shade of lipstick, look at your complexion. See my tips further down under the “Makeup Tips” category: ‘How to Choose Makeup Colors for Your Season’ a guide to colors to choose for your skin and hair color. The deeper your skin color, the richer and deeper you can go with lip color. Fair skin tones should stick with lighter, softer colors or a sheer lipstick. Avoid orange undertones in lipsticks unless you are sure you have a warm “season” complexion, either spring or autumn. Your lipstick color should be in the same color family as your blush-if your blush is rose, choose a rose or pink shade lipstick. If your blush is peach, choose a peachy or coral lipstick. Anyone can wear red but be sure to choose the right red for your complexion. If you have cool color skin tone, choose red with more blue undertones to it, for warm skin tone, choose red with orange undertones. To wear red with fair complexions, use a sheer red lipstick so it doesn’t overpower your skin tone by being too intense. Keep in mind that darker shades will make your lips appear smaller and lighter shades will make your lips appear fuller.

Lipstick Tips
-For a very long lasting stain use Jell-O or Kool-Aid powder. It stains lips and doesn’t wear off. Dip a brush into the powder (cherry or strawberry flavored) and apply to bare moistened lips. Apply red liner and fill in with transparent red gloss for lots of depth.
-If you wear braces keep your lips well moisturized, avoid drying matte lipsticks and wear neutral shades to avoid bringing attention to your braces. Play up your eye makeup so attention is diverted there instead of at your braces.
-Over the age of 50, you should not pick a really dark shade lipstick since it’s very harsh, aging and makes your lips look smaller. Since lips tend to get thinner with age, you definitely don’t want to apply a lipstick that makes them look thinner.
-Tone down a lipstick that’s too bright by putting some lipstick on the top of your hand, blend a little foundation into it and paint on lips with a lip brush.
-Lipstick will last much longer if you line lips thinly and fill in, blot with tissue, then line and fill in again using a thin coat. Top with a lip sealant clear film and apply a little gloss.

For the “Nude Lip” Look
The nude lip look is perfect for either a no makeup, natural look or playing down your lips when you have strong makeup on your eyes. Choose a beige that’s one to two shades darker than your skin tone and lean toward a little more color if desired-like your own lip color only a bit brighter-a hint of rose for cool or peach for warm color skin, pinky browns look good on fair, cool color skin and browns or golds for darker skin tones. Be sure to line lips for dimension and shape, then rub a bit of gloss on top-even a sheer colored gloss will look nice and give depth. To find a shade similar to your own lip color, make sure you have no makeup on since the color should look great without makeup. Choose a few lipsticks that seem to match your lips then brush a bit of the color from each in the middle of your bottom lip. It should not look milky, ashy, orangey or reddish. If you look tired, it’s probably too light, so go a shade or two darker. It should compliment your features regardless of what other makeup you apply without being overwhelming. It’s best to check the colors in sunlight and not fluorescent lighting which can change color quite a bit.

All About Blush

For cheek color, blusher is placed directly on the cheeks starting at the center or fattest part of the ‘apple’, and blended out then up towards the temple area or hair line (smile big to find the fattest part of your ‘apple’). It you have applied cheek contours (or lowlights-see article on “Professional Photography Makeup” in the “Model Tips” category for how-to’s), you want to blend your blush back and up meeting the contours so they blend together. Never apply blush closer to the nose than the outer rim of your iris or below an imaginary line from nostril base to the bottom of your ear, and keep color away from underneath the eye area which could look more like a sunburn or skin irritation than a healthy glow. Since we generally want our cheekbones to look full and defined, avoid getting blush up too high on your cheekbones-you want the cheekbones to be lighter so they appear full. If you apply your blush high on the cheekbones into your temples it looks very unnatural. When foundation is applied, its purpose is to even out skin tone and eliminate any redness in the center of your face so you don’t want to put that redness back in with blush-you only want a little soft color with the correct placement. Using a smaller brush to apply blush will get a better placement of color than if you use a large fluffy brush that deposits color in a large general area. The brush should be larger than the one they give you in the compact, but smaller than your large face powder brush. To get a soft, warm, healthy looking flush to your cheeks, avoid brownish shades and choose colors in your ‘Season’ that match or coordinate with your eye shadow and lip color or that have slight reddish pinky/rose (for cool complexions) or peachy/coral (for warm). Be sure to blend the edges of blush well so there are no hard lines and the effect is a very natural glow.
Types of Blushers
-Powder: the boldest color and good for all skin types except dry skin.
-Cream: is sheerer than powder and good for dry to normal skin.
-Liquid: has a matte finish that stains skin and lasts a long time. Good for all skin types except possibly dry or flaky skin since it can cause blotchy color.
-Gel: is the sheerest color and can be used as lip stain as well but is not the best for dry or flaky skin. Be sure to exfoliate first since it leaves dry flakes darker.
Blusher Tips
-To look more awake on a bad day, try using a blush color a shade brighter than your normal blush or dab on some lipstick in a bright sheer color and blend well.
-Never use dark bronzer or brown shades as your blush if you have fair skin. It will be too dark and too warm appearing unnatural and dirty looking.
-Don’t apply blush too bright or heavy-it will look clownish, and if your eyes or lips are emphasized with dramatic color, go very soft with the blush so they don’t compete.
-For dry skin, cream blushers work best. To apply cream blush, dab a little blush on your pointer and middle fingertips, smile big and starting in the center of the fattest part of the apple, make a big ‘check mark’ on your cheek and blend in.
-When applying gel blush which can dry quickly and streak, get a good finish by dipping fingertip lightly first in moisturizer then a tiny bit of gel blush on top of it, mix them and then blend into cheeks.
-If your face is long, and you want to make your face appear rounder, apply blush straight across the cheekbone. Avoid placing blush high on the cheekbones or on temple.
-If your face is round, and you want it to appear longer and more oval, apply blush diagonally on the cheekbone, angled toward temple.
-Soften and subdue a too bright or heavy application of blusher with loose face powder.
-Heat and oils from your finger will help blend cream, liquid and gel blushes and other makeup (wash hands first).
-Your blush should match and compliment the rest of your make-up but especially your lip color.
-Don’t use sparkly/iridescent blush or bronzer over acne since it will highlight zits. It’s best to just forgo blush and contours all together when you have acne so you don’t call attention to the bumpiness. Play up eyes or lips to divert attention away from areas that are broken out.

Old Time Skin Remedy and Ancient Health Tonic

Honey... with Milk
Honey is like a wonder tonic. A spoonful of honey acts to balance metabolic systems when ingested, and is a natural antibacterial. Cleopatra from ancient Egypt bathed in milk and honey for a flawless complexion. England’s Queen Anne used it on her hair for moisturizing and shine. Honey is a natural humectant that attracts and retains moisture. With its antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, it’s been touted for centuries to repair damaged, sensitive skin. Bacteria cannot grow in honey so the ancient Egyptians painted it on wounds to keep infections from forming. Smear some honey on your gums to help heal sensitive, sore mouths. You can make a classic old time smoothing lotion for extra dry skin by combining equal parts honey, lemon juice and any kind of vegetable oil (extra virgin olive oil or avocado oil are excellent), leave it on dry areas for 20-30 minutes and rinse off or jump in the bath and soak it off leaving skin soft and smooth all over. It’s also touted that if you take a spoonful of honey daily that is produced by bees in your geographical area, it will help you become immune to allergies of pollens since that honey is made directly from the pollens you’re affected by. Honey is good to take for a sore throat since it helps sooth and disinfect the throat. Taking honey daily can also help ward off arthritis and joint problems. Using honey to sweeten everything instead of sugar can gain you many health benefits while omitting the bad calories and dentist bills. See also under the category to the right “General Health” for information on apple cider vinegar and the ‘other wonder tonic’.
For more information on honey and vinegar: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm

Face Mask for Glowing Acne Free Skin

Acne Skin Softening-Flax and Yeast
Here’s a mask good for all skin types but excellent for acne. It softens, smoothes and nourishes skin giving it a fresh, youthful glow. Yeast is a particularly good treatment for acne:
Place 2 teaspoons flax seeds (available in health food and specialty stores) in a small bowl with just enough water to cover seeds. Let sit until the water forms a gel like substance. If you want to make it faster, you can boil the seeds covered in water until seeds burst and form a gel then let cool. Add 1 tablespoon Brewer’s or Baker’s yeast (found in little packets in the bread baker’s area) and more water as needed to make a soft paste like gel. Apply to clean face and let dry then rinse with tepid water and pat dry.
For more information on Acne and Yeast: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm

How to Choose Makeup Colors for Your Season

Matching up Your Complexion and Hair Color to Makeup
Be sure to match colors to your ‘Season’ (another topic on that to come under ‘Fashion” category). A majority of people are a cool tone, either summer or winter. For cool toned skin: choose cool colors such as pink, rose, burgundy, wine, plum, taupe, silver, gray, charcoal, blue and cool greens, and reds with a blue undertone. Few people are the warm tones of spring or autumn. Natural redheads are generally autumn. For warm tones: choose terra cotta, brick, peach, coral, orange, bronze, gold, caramel, chocolate brown and warm greens and reds. Warm reds have more orange tints in them while cool reds have more violet or blue. Warm greens have more yellow while cool greens have more blue. Violet eye makeup in smokey shades will look good almost universally on all skin tones. Bright, intense blues never look good on anyone so don't even buy it.
Fair Skin & Light Hair
Choose a pale blush, softer eyeshadow and liner colors since too much color will over power your fair coloring. Liner should be soft brown or charcoal, avoid really dark liner. Lips can go lighter or bold depending on whether you are more dressed down or up but for bold colors, choose more of a sheer lipstick or a gloss. Most everyone with very fair skin and hair are cool tone ‘Summer Season’ so you will probably look best in the cool colors.
Fair Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Medium shade blush with medium shades on eyes and lips as well. You want to be somewhere in the middle so you don’t over power the light or the dark. Liner should be medium brown or charcoal. Most dark haired girls with fair skin are ‘Winter Season’ and you’ll probably look best in cool colors. If your eyes are dark, you can get away with some darker shades around your eyes.
Olive Skin & Medium-Dark Hair
Brighter blushes or a bronzer and eyes in darker browns or golds. You can also use bright colors and dark liner. Lips can be brick, wine, soft caramel or chocolate brown. Your coloring can handle rich tones. Stay away from bright orangy and pinky shades which will bring out too much yellow in your skin. Eyeliner should be dark brown or black.
Medium Skin & Dark-Medium Hair
Blush in pink, wine or plum with eyes in a pale shade of gray, blue, purple or pink. Use black or gray eye liner and lips in pink, plum, reds or mauves. If skin has a golden cast to it, you may look better in the warm colors in medium to rich tones. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Light Brown Skin & Dark to Medium-Light Hair
Blush in rose, orangey peach or gold bronzes with eyes in brown shimmer or greens, blues or purple. Lips can be earth tones with gold specks, light brown, caramel, brick red or coral. Eyeliner should be dark brown or charcoal to black.
Dark Skin & Dark Hair
Blush in bright or deep reddish shades like rose, brick red, rust, watermelon, burgundy or mauves. Eyes should be one shade lighter than your skin tone with gold or silver specs depending on if you are a warm or cool tone. Brow bones should have an even lighter highlight, and use dark eye liner. Eyeliner should be black. Lips can be deep plum, red, wine or berry, or bright red, orange or fuchsia for evening. Darker skin with paler brown makeup colors will look ashy and washed out.

All About Eye Liners and Tips

Eyeliner Types
Eye liners come in pencil, liquid or powder. Pencils liners can be found in an assortment of sizes and colors. The fatter the pencil, the more smudged look you'll get, the smaller and harder the pencil, the more precise a line you’ll get. Pencils are versatile since you can use them for sharper, defined lines or create a smudged, smoky look and any combination in between. Liquid liners are a bit tricky to apply, but once you master a perfect line, you will probably love the look. Liquid liners will give a more dramatic, defined look. Powders go on softer but when mixed with a liquid, can go on darker. They must be used with a good pointed brush to apply a thin line.

Liner Application
Top Lids
Apply liner as close to lashes as possible-you don’t want to see any skin color between your lashes and liner. For pencils and powders you can scrub the color right into your lashes so you don’t see the skin tone-particularly useful for very fair complexions with sparse lashes. Smudging pencil liner will help avoid a harsh look. To make eyes look longer or wide-set, start mid-lid and extend liner just past the end of eye, tapering upward.
Bottom Lids
Apply pencil or powder liner sparingly as close to lashes as possible then smudge to avoid a harsh look and help balance the eye shape. To make eyes look longer or wide-set, start mid-lid and extend liner just past the end of eye, blending upward, or just add a small smudge under eyes at the outer corner and smudge upward. For most people, lining the entire bottom lid looks very unnatural, heavy, throws the shape of eyes off balance and makes eyes look smaller so stick with lining no more than half way in on the bottom. Liquid liner doesn’t usually look good on bottom lids since it can look too harsh and can be difficult to apply, but if you do want to try it, hold outer corner of lid taut and apply using quick short strokes if you have trouble making an even line in one thin stroke because of lashes in the way.

Eye Lining Tips
-The thicker the brush for liquid eyeliner, the thicker the line will be and the harder it is to manage a perfect line. Wipe excess liquid liner off on the rim of the tube when you pull the brush out. If the skin on your lid tends to crinkle, the line will not turn out straight.
-To help you get a fine straight line, hold eye lid taut at the outer corner of eye and apply in one long, smooth stroke starting at the inner corner. Always apply liquid liner after shadow application and allow to dry before applying mascara.
-Using oily or slick pencils to line the lower lashes will smear and smudge. Most pencil liners wear off easier, so set it to last longer and prevent smudging by softly brushing some powder shadow over it in black, brown or charcoal.
-Don’t use eyeshadow as eyeliner unless you use a brush with a small, precise, fine-tipped point. And mixing the shadow with water or Visine before applying will give you a better line and a good substitute if you don’t have any liner.
-Don’t use really bright colored pencils or eyeshadows to line the eye. It’s distracting and automatically looks like too much makeup. All you see is the makeup and not your eyes. Also don’t make liner the most obvious part of your overall makeup.
-Never circle the eye with dark or bright color. Both are too obvious and create an eyeglass-style circle around the eye.
-Don’t line the inside rim of the lids, between the lash and the eye itself unless you have really large eyes. It makes eyes look smaller, it’s messy and can be unhealthy for the cornea.
-Over-blending and spilling your eyeliner onto the skin under the lower lashes will make dark under eye circles look worse. Go easy with liner on top lids as well since it will bring attention the dark circles.-Never apply thick or heavy eyeliner to small or close-set eyes or eyes with small eyelids.
-To help correct droopy eyes (your eye shape droops downward at the outer corners), line upper lids starting at the middle of the lid in a very thin line and getting thicker at the outer corners and wing it upward and outward to visually lift eyes and don’t line bottom lids.
-Extend liner past the outer corner of the eyes and upward for a cat eye look, but be careful not to extend too far or you may look like an Egyptian Pharaoh.
-Soften the tip of a freshly sharpened pencil by gently rolling it across the back of your hand or between your fingers. You can also bring a dull, flattened pencil to more of a point without sharpening it by gently pinching and rolling the tip between your thumb and forefinger. You can also salvage a tip broken off a pencil by placing it back onto the pencil, gently pinch, push back toward pencil and roll between fingers to meld them together.

See other categories for “Makeup Tips” and “Eyes” for more ideas and for thousands more tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm

Makeup Tools on a Budget

From Arts and Craft Stores
Visit your local arts and crafts supply store for lots of great tools to use for makeup. Artist palettes work well for getting creative with mixing lip and eye colors. Particularly if you have a graveyard of colors you don’t like and you want to mix them together to tone them down or create new shades of your own. Just cut a little tip of the lipstick off and place on a palette to mix with other colors to create new colors, with foundation to tone colors down, or eye shadows to create completely new creative colors. Do the same with eye shadows-just place some on the palette and mix to your heart’s desire with any other makeup medium you can come up with. For an even cheaper way to mix colors together, use what I use for my paintings to mix colors-an empty Styrofoam egg carton. It gives you a dozen pockets for mixing and it’s disposable-and closable to save for later.

Paint and tool boxes make great makeup boxes with lots of compartments to store any kind of item. And artist brushes come in hundreds of shapes and sizes to choose from. Instead of paying a high price for good makeup brushes, look for high quality artist brushes on sale (Michaels Arts and Crafts Supply often has 50% off sales for brushes) and stock up on different kinds-many are shaped very much like makeup brushes. The natural bristles work best since acrylic or nylon brushes don’t hold most makeup well. Boar or camel’s hair brushes work best. Don’t forget to get a few stiff, pointy brushes for lining lips and eyes or feathering brows in. If you don’t like the long handle, simply saw some of it off and sand the end a bit.

Tired of getting hairspray on your face or shoulders? Don't spend a lot of money on a specialty hairspray shield, just use a sheet of clear plastic. You can see through it so you can view what you're spraying. Reuse the plastic from packages you would throw away and cut them to size, use them several times, then toss. You can probably find lots of items you could use for it when you look around the house.
Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm

Eye Shapes, Problems and Makeup Application

Eye Shadow Application and Tips for Eye Shapes and Problems
To prevent eye makeup from coming off, running or smudging by the end of the day: lightly moisturize eye area with an oil free lotion, apply foundation and then loose powder (even if you don’t like wearing foundation it helps to wear it at least on your eyes). It creates a base for the eye makeup to adhere to and makes blending colors easier. You can substitute makeup primer for the foundation which is applied in a light film and also creates smoother skin (be sure your moisturizer is oil free and soaks in about 10 minutes before applying primer since it won’t adhere to oily surfaces). Use powder shadow instead of creams or gels which tend to melt and fade faster. Avoid using your fingers to apply eye makeup because your fingers have oils that can make colors run. Wearing makeup just on tops of eyes will help avoid smudges and dark circles under eyes.

If you wear glasses, make sure eye makeup is well blended and neat because your glasses will magnify mistakes and keep eye liner thinner since the line will appear bolder through your glasses.

For a fast, easy way to add instant glamour to eyes, dab a bit of lip gloss on lid right above top lashes and blend. Bronze shimmer gloss will work for most complexions.

Crepey or Aging Wrinkled Eyelids
Before applying eye makeup, you might want to moisturize the eye area with a gel that helps tighten the skin up and helps prevent smudging that happens with oils or creams. Avoid applying foundation to eyelids which will collect in the creases and accentuate the crepiness, but do press on some face powder to lids before applying color for a smoother look. Instead of foundation, you could use a makeup primer which acts like a foundation in coverage but will smooth out skin when applied in a thin film. Avoid shimmery eye shadows which reflect light and draw attention to lids. If using cream shadows, be sure it’s not too greasy or too dry and choose colors that are soft matte tones in light to medium colors of nude, taupe, brown, soft grey or lavender so as not to draw too much attention. Stay away from very dark liners.

Under Eye Dark Circles
Avoid liner and eye shadow shades with blue or blue undertones or any dark shades anywhere under eyes. You might want to apply makeup only to upper lids so it draws attention away from the circles and is less likely to smudge under eyes and make circles darker. Always clean up any speckles of dark eye shadow that falls under your eyes. Also see other categories for tips on under eye circles such as “Eyes”, “Aging Skin” and “Revive Eyes and Face”.

Make Eye Color Pop
Your eye color will look more intense if you understate your lips and cheeks and play up your eyes with complimentary colors:
Brown eyes-wear green or gold
Blue eyes-wear orange or peach
Green eyes-wear purple or copper
Hazel eyes-wear blue or olive

Eye Shapes and Correct Makeup Application

Almond-shaped Eyes
Almond shapes are usually larger or longer with a bit of an upturn at the outer corners. Avoid too much dark shadow and liner at the same time and only line the outer two thirds of eyes. Apply lighter shade from lash to brow with medium shade on lid. Then place dark shadow on outer third of lid. Applying a dot of shimmery shadow on the outer half of brow bone is also a nice look. Apply generous coats of mascara and comb well to separate.

Close-set Eyes
Close-set eyes are often due to a slender nose and makes your face look smaller, or all your features crowded in the center of your face. To create the illusion of width between eyes, apply color wide apart. Start shadow well away from eye's inner corner blending up and out with the more intense shade at outer limits. Line only the outer half of the eye and then apply light shadow to inner corners. Concentrate mascara on outer lashes as well. Another trick you can use to spread eyes apart is to put a dot of very light eye shadow at the inner corner of eyes next to nose and blend inward toward upper and lower lids. This will work even if you aren’t wearing any other eye shadow colors.

Deep-set or Hooded Eyes
These eyes don’t have a visible crease, such as Asian eyes. Go easy with eye makeup and avoid dark shades on the lids but line upper lash line with a dark shade, with liner on the bottom lids optional and smudge to soften. To make eyes pop, use a light shimmery shadow on brow bones and a slightly darker shadow on lids to just above the crease and apply plenty of mascara. To add a little drama, you can create a bit of an upturn to liner at the outer corners and blend some medium color shadow along eyelids and follow the upturn, blending upward toward brows. Curling lashes also helps eyes pop.

Round Eyes
To make them appear more almond-shaped, use lighter shadow all over top lid, darker in entire crease. Line top and bottom lid, extend liner out and up at end. Mascara for top lashes only, with more on outer half.

Wide-set Eyes
Apply a light to medium shade from lash to brow. Place darker shadow shade near eye's inner corners, blending across lid and feathering out lightly towards temples. Focus liner and mascara on inner corners to help pull the look of eyes together.

Small Eyes
Make eyes look larger and add sparkle by using a light colored shimmery pencil or shadow (for very fair skin use white and for dark skin use gold, others can use shimmery pink or silver for cool complexions and shimmery gold or yellow for warm complexions). Apply it in a small ‘V’ at inner corner of eyes with one side of the V going along top eyelid and other side of V along the bottom lid. Small eyes typically have little or no lids showing so avoid dark colors that make eyes look smaller and lids disappear. Never line all the way around small eyes and keep lines thinner, lining just the outer third of eyes, top and bottom, then soften the line with a sponge or cotton swab. Use lighter shades in both liner and shadow such as pale gray, soft brown, taupe, smokey lavender or other subtle color. Lining the lower inner lid area with light taupe or bluish white pencil will make eyes look bigger. Pale shimmery shadows will look good on lids up to the crease and a little added at the inner corners of eyes and a little on the bottom lid which will make eyes stand out. Use an eyelash curler to help open up eyes and make them appear larger as well.

Eyes with little or no lids showing
Apply a silvery green, violet or blue shadow beginning near lashes and fading up to the crease to brighten eyes and add pizzazz. Eye liner should be very thin or none at all. If you do use liner concentrate the line at the outer corner of the eye to make eyes appear larger and lightly line under eyes with a soft line using eye shadow and a cotton swab.

Large Eyes
Large eyes generally have a lot of eyelid showing, and often the most prominent facial feature, so you don’t need very much makeup to accentuate them. To keep eyes from overpowering the face, keep eye makeup subtle with less shading or contrast. Avoid shimmery or bright colors and place shadow in the center of the lid, blending outward, a little inward and up toward crease. Don’t use several different colors, use just one color of shadow and liner. Large eyes can handle lining all the way around eyes or heavy liner. Applying liner to the inner rim of bottom lids will make eyes appear smaller. Mascara should be applied just on top lashes since mascara on the bottom lashes can look too doll-like.

Mascara Application and Tips

All About Mascara
-If you want to wear just one item of makeup, it should be mascara.
-Twirl the mascara brush in the tube, don’t pump-this pushes air into the tube drying it out faster and could introduce bacteria.
-Remove excess on the brush by rubbing it against the bottle opening or blot on a tissue.
-You can unclump mascara by lightly misting the brush, wait 10 seconds then apply. It will dilute it just enough to leave color without lumps, but don’t use on waterproof mascara.
-For best application of mascara to top lashes, open your eyes wide while lifting your eye brows, place the brush as close to the roots of your lashes as possible and wiggle or saw back and forth before brushing out to get more product applied to every lash. Lightly brush the tip back and forth across lower lashes.
-Apply 2-3 coats of mascara, letting each coat dry in between application for longer, thicker lashes.
-Applying too much mascara will probably cause flaking or smearing under your eyes and a hard, spiky appearance. It does not look better to wear excessive mascara, it just looks gunky and overdone and could cause your lashes to break or fall out.
-Clean up mascara mistakes after the mascara dries so it won’t smear. It should flake off easily with a swab or sponge.
-Using mascara or liner on bottom lashes can make under eye circles worse so skip the bottom if you are dark under your eyes.
-If you’re over 30 or have fair skin and hair, avoid black mascara which can look too harsh. Go with dark brown instead.
-Save the colored mascaras, such as purple, blue or green for special fun events and not for the office where it looks unprofessional. But if you want to use colored mascara, maroon color will make blue or green eyes really pop. Blue mascara will help make the whites of your eyes whiter.
-Avoid using waterproof mascara on a regular basis since it’s difficult to remove without pulling lashes out and stretching delicate skin around the eyes that causes bags over time. Even waterproof mascaras can smudge when in contact with oils or creams so be sure to use light, oil free creams or gel moisturizers that contain sunscreen and nutrients. Gels will also help tighten skin around your eyes. Many of the water soluble mascaras will work just as well unless you will be swimming or shedding tears.
-If using an eye lash curler, use before applying mascara and make sure it has a rubber edge to protect against pulling out hairs. Curling can make lashes more noticeable and open up your eyes but can look strange if they are bent in an unnatural angle so don’t overdo it. Gently squeeze evenly and hold for a few seconds and continuing the length of your lashes from roots to ends. You can use the curler after just one coat of mascara if you’re very careful and it will help hold the curl in your lashes better.
-Clean out a used up mascara tube and use it to fill with petroleum jelly and use in place of mascara to define and lengthen lashes if you are sensitive to makeup. Or keep the old brush to use as a brow tamer or separate lashes that clump together.
-There are many choices of mascara out there: thickening, lengthening, curling or just color tint, clear and waterproof or a combination. You need to decide what will work best for your lash type and lifestyle.
-You don’t need to spend a lot of money on mascara. Some cheaper ones work just as well and sometimes better than expensive ones. When looking for one you like, begin with cheaper brands and work your way up until you find the perfect choice without wasting lots of money. Cover Girl Great Lash is still one of the top selling mascaras and has been for decades-and it’s extremely reasonable.

Best Way to Treat Acne and Blackheads

Basic and Best Acne Treatment
The basic (and still recommended) way to treat acne is with a gentle cleanser (most Dermatologists recommend liquid Cetaphyl Cleanser which is great for sensitive skin and contains no detergent to irritate) at least twice a day, applying a 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide product twice daily, along with a light, oil free moisturizer. The twice daily Benzoyl Peroxide treatment should be applied about 12 hours apart and liberally, starting out with approximately a dime size amount and increasing the amount as skin tolerates. A very thin layer will probably do nothing for you and probably the reason many people give up on it is too scanty application or not often enough. Some people’s skin do not tolerate Benzoyl Peroxide very well so if you have sensitive skin, start even slower until you know how your skin will react. Include application of a BHA-Beta Hydroxy Acid .5% cream (Salicylic Acid) along with the Benzoyl Peroxide for better success. The BHA helps rid skin of top layers of dead cells that can collect in pores and when mixed with oil from your skin and bacteria, the result is an eruption of a blemish. The Benzoyl Peroxide helps clear up the bacteria causing havoc. The products should be pH correct (between 3 & 4) and not include any irritants or fragrances like mint or alcohol or anything else you know you are sensitive to). This routine is generally what a doctor would start you with before working up to other treatments, but you can do it without the Dr’s office fees since they are all products available over the counter without a prescription. It works for many people but just like other treatments for acne, it might not work for everyone. Even Accutane, with its touted success, does not always work even after repeated treatments and is very pricey. This basic routine is the most cost effective route to take to begin treating your acne before taking expensive, drastic measures. When using any product containing Benzoyl Peroxide, keep in mind that it can stain and bleach fabric as well as hair. Be sure to sleep with a towel to protect your pillow and change the towel every couple days to prevent bacteria from growing and causing more acne problems. Avoid getting it on your eyebrows or hairline since it will bleach hair.

Basic and Best Blackhead Treatment
If you have acne along with the blackheads, follow the treatment described above making sure you are using the Salicylic Acid .5% (BHA-Beta Hydroxy Acid) cream which helps improve the pore lining functions to keep them clear and slough off the dead skin cells. Don't go any stronger than .5% since it could cause other problems. Again, be sure the product is pH correct (between 3 & 4) which helps it penetrate the follicle lining of the pore to dislodge blackheads and allow the oil to flow freely to the surface of the skin. Benzoyl Peroxide works for the bacteria that causes acne but has no effect on the blackheads since they aren’t caused by bacteria. To effectively remove the blackheads, squeezing is the best remedy and is exactly what you pay a facialist to do. Blackheads are not ‘dirt’ and you cannot scrub them away since they begin well under the surface of the skin. Just take care to gently squeeze out blackheads using a soft cloth so you don’t damage the skin and create scarring. The removal works more efficient if you first steam your face to soften skin and open the pores. After removing the blackheads, apply a toner or alcohol free astringent to help shrink the pores. Some natural liquids that are oil reducing by nature and help close up the open pores: Vodka, lemon juice, witch hazel and buttermilk. Applying aloe vera gel is a great alternative too since it’s astringent, very healing and soothing to skin. You can also help shrink the open pores by brushing on raw egg white to the skin and letting it dry then lightly rinsing. Never apply rubbing alcohol to shrink pores which is much too harsh and can make problems worse. See the other topics under ‘Acne’ for further information and tips.
For much more information on acne, skin care, natural products and more: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm

Traditional Skin Care Recipes "Beauty Tonics"

Rose Water and Glycerin Skin Care
Rose water and glycerin has been a popular skin care product forever. The rose is anti-inflammatory and nourishing to skin while the glycerin helps pull in moisture to the skin from the air. It makes a great skin toner that is slightly astringent with oil free moisturizing, and just pure rose water alone can be used as toner. Here is a recipe to make your own and following this one is a recipe to make your own authentic rose water.
1 cup real rose water-recipe follows
(or you can substitute placing a handful of dry rose petals in a jar, cover with boiling water, seal and let sit overnight to infuse the water then strain)
2 teaspoons glycerin
4-8 drops of rose essential oil
Combine all in a jar and shake well to blend. Adding about ½ teaspoon of grapefruit seed extract will help preserve it so it will last longer.

How to Make Authentic Rose Water
Most rose water you purchase is not pure rose water but synthetic oil with water and preservatives added to it. Pure rose water is made by distilling water of roses and can also be used to flavor foods such as rice pudding and pastries.
You can make about a quart of high quality rose water in about 1 hour. Use caution not to simmer too long so the rose water essence doesn’t become diluted. Be sure to have a brick and heat safe stainless steel or glass quart bowl.
2-3 quarts fresh roses or rose petals.
Water and ice cubes or crushed ice
In the center of a large tall pot, like the round lidded type used for canning, place a fireplace or heatproof brick. On top of the brick place the heat safe bowl and put the roses in the pot, enough to reach the top of the brick. Pour just enough water to cover the roses and the water should be just above the top of the brick. Place the rounded lid upside down on the pot. Turn the stove on and bring the water to a rolling boil then lower heat to slow, steady simmer. As soon as the water begins to boil, put 2-3 trays of ice cubes or a bag of ice on top of the lid so the steam created in the pot will hit the cold lid and condense. The condensed water will drip down from the center of the lid and drop into the bowl sitting on the brick. This is a simple home “still”. About every twenty minutes, quickly lift lid and take out a sample of the water. It’s time to stop distilling once you have about a pint and a quart or water and it smells and tastes strong of roses.

Ancient Mayan Skin Cream Recipe
This cream has long been used by Mayans to keep skin young looking, softened and helps correct pH balance while fighting off damaging free radicals.
½ cup aloe vera gel
1/8 cup glycerin
1/2 to 1 teaspoon royal bee jelly
1 teaspoon plumeria flower essential oil (also known as frangipani)
Mix all ingredients together well and keep refrigerated up to 6 months in a glass jar. Massage into face at bedtime.

Puffy Under Eye Bags

Reduce Swollen Bags Under Eyes
Swelling under your eyes or saggy skin can be treated by rubbing a little Preparation H Hemorroid cream into them which helps draw out excess fluid and tighten skin up. This trick has been used by super models for years. Puffiness also can be helped with gentle tapping with your fingertips around the eye socket bone to increase circulation and rid the fluid buildup naturally. If the puffy bags are due to fat deposits, and not fluid, that is better dealt with by a dermatologist or plastic surgeon since it should be done with surgery. Sleeping with your head elevated also helps keep the fluid from collecting over night. If you apply a very heavy eye cream around your eyes at bedtime, that can also cause morning puffiness.

Blemishes: Preparation H, Visine, Potatoes and Green

Flatten and Treat a Raised Inflamed Pimple:
Rub hemorrhoid cream into the blemish to help take out the swelling or press an ice cube wrapped in a cloth over the raised area of acne. This may not take much of the redness out and if it is still red, dab some Visine eye drops on it to reduce redness. A slice of raw potato placed on the zit for about 10-15 minutes will also help draw out the redness. If you need to camoflage the redness, you can lightly apply a spot of green concealer over the red area before applying foundation. Red and green are opposite each other on the color wheel-when you mix the two together, they cancel each other out, neutralizing the red. After placing a spot of the concealer over the zit, touch it lightly with your fingertip to help the concealer 'melt' into your skin and blend better. Then apply foundation and powder. If it still shows, apply a touch of flesh tone concealer, touch lightly again and powder-repeat until it disappears. If you have a lot of bumps to deal with, do not draw attention to them. If your cheeks are affected, skip the blush and focus on another area of your face for makeup such as eyes. If your chin is broken out, don't draw attention to your chin with deep or bright lipsticks. For forehead breakouts, hide the area with bangs (clean hair only) or shift focus lower to your lips with brighter lipstick.
For thousands of additional tips and information: Beauty and the Budget at VirtualBookWorm