Eye Shadow Application and Tips for Eye Shapes and Problems
To prevent eye makeup from coming off, running or smudging by the end of the day: lightly moisturize eye area with an oil free lotion, apply foundation and then loose powder (even if you don’t like wearing foundation it helps to wear it at least on your eyes). It creates a base for the eye makeup to adhere to and makes blending colors easier. You can substitute makeup primer for the foundation which is applied in a light film and also creates smoother skin (be sure your moisturizer is oil free and soaks in about 10 minutes before applying primer since it won’t adhere to oily surfaces). Use powder shadow instead of creams or gels which tend to melt and fade faster. Avoid using your fingers to apply eye makeup because your fingers have oils that can make colors run. Wearing makeup just on tops of eyes will help avoid smudges and dark circles under eyes.
If you wear glasses, make sure eye makeup is well blended and neat because your glasses will magnify mistakes and keep eye liner thinner since the line will appear bolder through your glasses.
For a fast, easy way to add instant glamour to eyes, dab a bit of lip gloss on lid right above top lashes and blend. Bronze shimmer gloss will work for most complexions.
Crepey or Aging Wrinkled Eyelids
Before applying eye makeup, you might want to moisturize the eye area with a gel that helps tighten the skin up and helps prevent smudging that happens with oils or creams. Avoid applying foundation to eyelids which will collect in the creases and accentuate the crepiness, but do press on some face powder to lids before applying color for a smoother look. Instead of foundation, you could use a makeup primer which acts like a foundation in coverage but will smooth out skin when applied in a thin film. Avoid shimmery eye shadows which reflect light and draw attention to lids. If using cream shadows, be sure it’s not too greasy or too dry and choose colors that are soft matte tones in light to medium colors of nude, taupe, brown, soft grey or lavender so as not to draw too much attention. Stay away from very dark liners.
Under Eye Dark Circles
Avoid liner and eye shadow shades with blue or blue undertones or any dark shades anywhere under eyes. You might want to apply makeup only to upper lids so it draws attention away from the circles and is less likely to smudge under eyes and make circles darker. Always clean up any speckles of dark eye shadow that falls under your eyes. Also see other categories for tips on under eye circles such as “Eyes”, “Aging Skin” and “Revive Eyes and Face”.
Make Eye Color Pop
Your eye color will look more intense if you understate your lips and cheeks and play up your eyes with complimentary colors:
Brown eyes-wear green or gold
Blue eyes-wear orange or peach
Green eyes-wear purple or copper
Hazel eyes-wear blue or olive
Eye Shapes and Correct Makeup Application
Almond shapes are usually larger or longer with a bit of an upturn at the outer corners. Avoid too much dark shadow and liner at the same time and only line the outer two thirds of eyes. Apply lighter shade from lash to brow with medium shade on lid. Then place dark shadow on outer third of lid. Applying a dot of shimmery shadow on the outer half of brow bone is also a nice look. Apply generous coats of mascara and comb well to separate.
Close-set eyes are often due to a slender nose and makes your face look smaller, or all your features crowded in the center of your face. To create the illusion of width between eyes, apply color wide apart. Start shadow well away from eye's inner corner blending up and out with the more intense shade at outer limits. Line only the outer half of the eye and then apply light shadow to inner corners. Concentrate mascara on outer lashes as well. Another trick you can use to spread eyes apart is to put a dot of very light eye shadow at the inner corner of eyes next to nose and blend inward toward upper and lower lids. This will work even if you aren’t wearing any other eye shadow colors.
Deep-set or Hooded Eyes
These eyes don’t have a visible crease, such as Asian eyes. Go easy with eye makeup and avoid dark shades on the lids but line upper lash line with a dark shade, with liner on the bottom lids optional and smudge to soften. To make eyes pop, use a light shimmery shadow on brow bones and a slightly darker shadow on lids to just above the crease and apply plenty of mascara. To add a little drama, you can create a bit of an upturn to liner at the outer corners and blend some medium color shadow along eyelids and follow the upturn, blending upward toward brows. Curling lashes also helps eyes pop.
To make them appear more almond-shaped, use lighter shadow all over top lid, darker in entire crease. Line top and bottom lid, extend liner out and up at end. Mascara for top lashes only, with more on outer half.
Apply a light to medium shade from lash to brow. Place darker shadow shade near eye's inner corners, blending across lid and feathering out lightly towards temples. Focus liner and mascara on inner corners to help pull the look of eyes together.
Make eyes look larger and add sparkle by using a light colored shimmery pencil or shadow (for very fair skin use white and for dark skin use gold, others can use shimmery pink or silver for cool complexions and shimmery gold or yellow for warm complexions). Apply it in a small ‘V’ at inner corner of eyes with one side of the V going along top eyelid and other side of V along the bottom lid. Small eyes typically have little or no lids showing so avoid dark colors that make eyes look smaller and lids disappear. Never line all the way around small eyes and keep lines thinner, lining just the outer third of eyes, top and bottom, then soften the line with a sponge or cotton swab. Use lighter shades in both liner and shadow such as pale gray, soft brown, taupe, smokey lavender or other subtle color. Lining the lower inner lid area with light taupe or bluish white pencil will make eyes look bigger. Pale shimmery shadows will look good on lids up to the crease and a little added at the inner corners of eyes and a little on the bottom lid which will make eyes stand out. Use an eyelash curler to help open up eyes and make them appear larger as well.
Eyes with little or no lids showing
Apply a silvery green, violet or blue shadow beginning near lashes and fading up to the crease to brighten eyes and add pizzazz. Eye liner should be very thin or none at all. If you do use liner concentrate the line at the outer corner of the eye to make eyes appear larger and lightly line under eyes with a soft line using eye shadow and a cotton swab.
Large eyes generally have a lot of eyelid showing, and often the most prominent facial feature, so you don’t need very much makeup to accentuate them. To keep eyes from overpowering the face, keep eye makeup subtle with less shading or contrast. Avoid shimmery or bright colors and place shadow in the center of the lid, blending outward, a little inward and up toward crease. Don’t use several different colors, use just one color of shadow and liner. Large eyes can handle lining all the way around eyes or heavy liner. Applying liner to the inner rim of bottom lids will make eyes appear smaller. Mascara should be applied just on top lashes since mascara on the bottom lashes can look too doll-like.